Tuesday 01/11/05

Found this very interesting link on the customs surrounding Hallowe'en, All Hallows and All Souls. Hallowe'en being All Hallows' eve, and on 31st October. All Hallows, when all the saints are commemorated is on 1st November; All Souls, when all the departed are remembered, is on November 2nd. This has a strong Roman Catholic background!
http://www.kensmen.com/catholic/customstimeafterpentecost12aa.html

November started with a bang at 4 in the morning, on account of two flashes of lightning and two claps of thunder. Heavy rain accompanied this shower. More follow through the morning. Three workmen are staying with mrs B, but their gear has not arrived on the good old Muirneag. Have a good old yarn with mrs B about the church and all the splits that continually occur in the Free Church here in Lewis. The weather turns pretty changeable, with heavy showers alternating sunny intervals. The ferry is about 15 minutes late getting in at lunchtime. I'm writing descriptions for hidden places in Lewis, such as Steimreway, 4 miles west of Lemreway. Others include the Iolaire Monument outside Sandwick and the sheilings at Cuidhsiadar and Filiscleitir in Ness. Also discover a very interesting article on the net from Views of Scotland about sheilings and the proposed windfarm. A bulletin board on VisitHebrides.com features Angus Nicolson, a local councillor, who has some vociferous exchanges with a German photographer and frequent visitor. By nightfall, at 5pm, the showers fade away.

Halloween 2005

Hallowe'en 2005

Sunday 30/10/05

Clocks went back last night so the sun shone at 8 in the morning. Nice bright morning but hazy. Banks of cloud move up from the south, looking threatening, but dissipating all the while. Met Office has issued a severe weather warning with severe gales in the offing. After midday, the rain starts and it gets quite gloomy. Find a report on the Coastguard website that a Spanish fisherman was lost overboard 145 miles NW of the Butt of Lewis. Stornoway Coastguard were alerted by Falmouth CG, who in turn had been alerted by an Irish coastguard at Malin Head. He spoke Spanish, and happened to be monitoring traffic on 2182 kHz. Communications were going via Madrid because "none of the fishermen spoke Spanish". What? Stornoway Coastguard is very concerned, because the man washed overboard in full oiskins in southeasterly gales, with no lifejacket. Search is called off after 6 hours. Sun is back after 2pm, but the wind picks up through the afternoon. Learn that the planet Mars can be seen above the eastern horizon in the evening. At sunset, now at 4.45, a small yacht can be seen sailing into the harbour. Its progress is only slow, and it vanishes into the darkness once past Arnish. Sheets of water slam over the causeway. At 5.30, it's fully dark. Dinner tonight is sweet and sour chiecken with rice, a glass of wine and sticky-toffee-pudding from a tin. The latter is OK, but not like the real article. Finally manage to put the Mod music on the net, and it's available on http://modmusic.bravehost.com.

Summer Time - Winter Time 2005

Daylight Saving Time (Summer Time, or BST in the UK) came to an end last night. Don't forget to put your clocks back, if you haven't already done so.

Saturday 29/10/05

Reasonable day to start with. Watched someone clean up after his dog - by throwing the poo over the seawall. Have compiled a Mod scrapbook, but need duplicate copies of the relevant papers to be able to use all the pictures; images are printed on both sides of some pages. Go to Lewis Crofters to start with, to buy 2 new pairs of socks, an insulated cup. It's raining when I leave that treasure trove. Into town for a new pair of shoes from Murdo MacLean's. That shop is full of helpful ladies. I find one pair of shoes that appears to fit, erm - the right shoe does. The left one has gone walkabout. The assistant hunts high and low, engages the help of everybody else, only to find the missing shoe in its original box! Return to Newton after finishing purchases and carry on updating the on-line journal. Manage to squeeze in quite a few piccies about the last few days. Night falls at 5.45 pm - tomorrow that will be at 4.45. Clocks go back tonight. Mrs B (Barbara for insiders) provides me with a very nice meal:

- Parma ham with melon and grapes
- Lasagna
- Chocolate and custard
- Glass of wine

As we both got lottery tickets, we watch Eamonn Holmes' program Jet Set to see the draw. No winnings at all. Yesterday, I made my 200th entry on Metcheck (www.metcheck.com). The count runs up quickly when the weather is bad or unusual. Last night, the wind dropped rapidly after 9 o'clock. The Met Office website gives nice graphs.
Just after 11, a shower comes past clattering against the window.

Friday 28/10/05

Bright morning, but with a full southerly gale. The lifeboat goes out at 8.50, powering into some hefty waves beyond Arnish Light. Read that a fishing boat went on fire last Friday between Eigg and Rum.

The crew let off an emergency flare, and a member of the public dialled 999, saying a fishing boat was ablaze. When the ferry Ossian of Staffa (right), on relief duty for normal ferry Lochnevis, arrived, they found the crew in liferafts near the vessel.

The Kalibarri was towed away to Mallaig, after it was ascertained that the fire was out. Here in Stornoway, the Isle of Lewis left port at the unusual time of 9.15, but she keeps heading southeast, instead of going east after rounding Arnish Light. We assume that she is away for refit, and await her replacement with bated breath. It's very rough out there. By midday, the fun gets even better with sharp rainshowers. The ferry's normal sailings have been cancelled due to adverse weather. The Sound of Harris ferry is out as well. Strangley enough, the Isle of Lewis returns at 4.30. When I was at Somerfields, the notice said that fresh produce would be avilable after 5pm. God knows where the ferry had gone to get food - my guess is Skye. Hear that someone was seriously injured early on Monday. The ferry was shifting berths, when a hawser snapped. It lashed out and hit a man. He has now been transferred to Raigmore Hospital in Inverness. After supper, I take mrs B to a concert in An Lanntair, where Lewis Women are performing. This is a group of 6 pretty accomplished singers. It's very good, one of them is Anna Murray. They alternate between solo and group singing, with some fantastic images projected on the screen behind the ladies. I sit beside a lady who has done as much walking in her day as I have, so we can swap yarns. Although there is an interval, hardly anyone goes out to the bar. They all prefer to sit and talk. Performance finishes at 10.15. Fortunately it's dry outside and the stars are shining brightly.

Thursday 27/10/05

Very nice morning, but very blustery. We're warned against strong gusts of wind at high levels, up to 70-80 mph. Temperatures could sore to 21C / 70F. Kenny "There you go" MacLeod on Isles FM has a bad cold and complains that there is no milk in the studio to put in his coffee. Well, Stornoway rises to the appeal and he very soon asks people to stop bringing milk! On the subject of windfarms, an advisor states that councils are being brainwashed into building windfarms by the manufacturers. The Scottish Executive has as yet failed to produce guidelines. It could leave the Highlands an industrial wasteland. Does this sound familiar? Like heck it does. Caithness, the far northeast, could end up mirroring sites in Spain and California which sport hundreds of the things. The profits made by companies like Amec and scandalous. Quoting from Radio Scotland, this is very interesting news. Going through pens like a dose of salts; the last pen just ran out again. New lot out of Woolworths later today. At 1.40, mrs B and I go on the bus to Stewart Drive, near the hospital, to go to the War Memorial.

I have visited this conspicuous landmark, above the hospital, twice before; on July 4th and December 31st. Stewart Drive is a steep street, which requires mrs B to take a break or two. At the top, we come out amongst fields, where sheep are grazing quietly. They are very white with beautiful black faces. Next month, the rams will be put amongst them to ensure more lambs next year. At the top, we enjoy the view s around. Stornoway lies at our feet. The time at just after 2pm, the ferry is blasting away. It normally doesn't do that before departure. Broad Bay is fairly clear, although Point is very hazy. The Arnish hills are laid out in shades of grey, and the hill with Prince Charlie's monument on top stands out. Eitsal and the Barvas Hills are clear. A navy ship (possibly HMS Shoreham) is anchored in Broad Bay.

A helicopter is preparing to land at the airport. The Laxdale estuary is full, so no pedestrian crossing there today. Water is flowing out of the tower of the War Memorial. Built 81 years ago, it has suffered problems with water ingress for decades. Twenty-three plaques commemorate the 1,151 men of the five parishes of Lewis killed in action in WW1 and 2. The majority appear to have fallen in the First War, with the RNR [Royal Naval Reserve] featuring heavily. About 1 out of every 3 RNR men came from Lewis. On Remembrance Sunday, November 13, people will be thronging the walkway up to the tower. The ground beside the paths is sodden, an indication of the recent heavy rainfall. We go downhill to the Lochs Road, then turn right into Willowglen Road opposite the Caberfeidh Hotel. Last week, a watermill was inaugurated further upstream. This mill generates electricity to power the streetlamps along the walkway to Cuddy Point. Once back in town, our ways temporarily divide for shopping. It's warm, 18C.

Wednesday 26/10/05

Cloudy day today. Ferries are back to normal. Went out at 10.30 to buy tickets at An Lanntair for a performance on Friday by Lewis Women. This is a group of folk singers from Lewis. We found out on the net last night that only a handful of seats were left, so I was in there like a shot. Picked up some leaflets at An Lanntair for the Hebridean Celtic Festival 2006 http://www.hebceltfest.com

as well as for the Mod 2007 (yep; next year's Mod is in Dunoon) which will take place in Lochaber. Not much info on that yet ( (http://www.lochabermod2007.co.uk), but the Dunoon mod is slightly better organised (have a look at http://www.mod2006.co.uk/)

Bought papers at the Baltic bookshop and food at Somerfields. Met Mrs B's sister and husband at the supermarket. Got a lottery ticket, which was not the lucky one. Continue to peruse the journals on AOL nominated for the Vivi awards, which are given to the best blog in a certain category. (http://hometown.aol.com/pattboy92/viviawards). I try to get my head round an FTP client program, but get lost in no time at all. Mrs B's nice suite of seats are suffering problems in the shape of collapsed springs. Sunrise at the moment 8.25, sunset 17.53. We have lost 9 hours of daylight since June. Watch All Creatures Great and Small again. There is one program, called Takeshi's Castle, on Challenge.Typical Japanese game-show, people get very wet, dirty and sometimes hurt. Very funny at times.

Tuesday 25/10/05

Very nice day today. Ann and Gordon went to have a look at the Western Isles Museum in Francis Street, to leave for the airport at 1pm. The ferry reappeared, late, at lunchtime. The Muirneag also came in in the morning, although it wasn't until 10 o'clock - she normally docks at 7.30 am. Apart from all the excitement with the ferries, not an awful lot has happened. Have gathered up all last week's papers, have bought a scrapbook and some glue. Cut out every snipped about the Mod and stuck that in the scrapbook. A very nice memento of a most enjoyable week. The only negative side to my attendance was the language barrier. Mrs B is very happy with the new computer that her son has given her. New is not strictly correct - it is only a few years old, and is second hand, but still in perfectly good order.

Monday 24/10/05

Today's events are centred on our two ferries:
MV Muirneag
MV Isle of Lewis
Yesterday was sunny, but today it's cloudy and cold. Easterly wind continues, and it causes problems. Good old Muirneag turns up at 9 o'clock, but she goes straight out again. Apparently after hitting no 1 pier. Normally, she'd go at anchor in the Glumag, off Arnish, but she puts right out to sea again. The wind is force 6 to 7, and as the Muirneag has no bow thrusters, she is easily blown away. At midday, we see her sailing NORTH along the eastern horizon, although she did turn east upon leaving at 9. A Navy vessel can be seen pitching and heaving at times listing at an angle of 40° in the choppy seas. The Isle of Lewis ferry is very late getting in and even later leaving for Ullapool at 3.15 - 90 minutes after the advertised time. Because the freight didn't come off the Muirneag, the supermarket shelves are very bare. No rolls for instance. It's a right nuisance for people, particularly because it's a Monday. During the evening, rain adds to the fun, but whatever happens, the Isle of Lewis never showed up again. According to local rumour, the ferry was all set up to go, cars on board and lashed down, when the decision was taken not to sail. So people were left stranded in Ullapool; they couldn't drive anywhere because the cars were lashed down. People were forced to spend the night on board the vessel, which has no overnight facilities. Very awkward for those with young children. No information was given out, as per normal on the Ullapool - Stornoway run. Not even on the website. If you ring the Calmac office here in SY, you get a recorded message to contact Gourock during office hours. Fat lot of use that. Ann and Gordon, the Canadian choristers, returned from South Uist at 6 pm, having left there at 11 am. Went for a walk at 11 pm and found Muirneag tied up, but no Isle of Lewis. Wind dropped away, and it was quite pleasant out there.

Sunday 23/10/05

Oh. The Mod is over. Life is back to normal, I suppose...

We get up late, 10 a.m.. In the afternoon, mrs B and I go out for an amble to Lower Sandwick. Past the Coastguard Station, up to the Battery, down Millar Road and along the foreshore to Sandwick Cemetery. It is a sunny but chilly afternoon, with a strong easterly wind. Visibility is good, you can see Kebock Head, the Shiants and Skye looming up to the south, 40 miles away. Mrs B goes into the cemetery to look at the graves of some people she used to know. Her husband's grave is there; he died in May 1993 of a heart attack. Her mother lies buried at Dalmore, she died in July 1993 at the age of 90. After mrs B has located the grave of an ancestor who died in 1889, aged 56, we leave the graveyard and head up Lower Sandwick to Sandwick proper. Then it's down the road, along the northern perimeter of the cemetery. The sun is sinking lower, with the time at 4.20pm. As we go down Oliver's Brae, we have nice views of Eitsal, the Barvas Hills, Muirneag and the east coast from Kebock Head to Tolsta. Back down Island Road, where mrs B continues her melancholy trip down memory lane. One of the derilict buildings used to be the office of the Harris Tweed mill operated by her husband. She points out all the now-delapidated premises which used to be good mills. Over and out.
Eat my usual microwave meal, after being served food last night.

Saturday 22/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 7)

The Mod comes to an end today. The choirs will sing for a final time, all together, in Perceval Square, at 10.30. At the breakfast table, the post-mortem was continuing as to the reasons why the Canadian choir had not succeeded. The Gaelic tutor was staying with us, and she felt particularly down. You can only feel sorry. Once in Perceval Square I had to wait for quite a bit because the pipebands were once again late. They marched the choristers down Cromwell Street and into Perceval Square.
The above image (taken in July) shows the junction of Cromwell Street and Percival Square (to the left). The image below (April 2005) shows the view in the opposite direction, from Percival Square into Cromwell Street.

A Lewis Crofters lorry has been set up with a set of speakers and conductors take turns conducting the massed choirs. At 1.15, I go down to the ferry terminal. Droves of people going on the ferry. They're seen off by the pipeband. The usual melee ensues, but everybody does manage to squeeze on board. With twice 3 hoots on the ship's whistle, the Isle of Lewis sails for Ullapool at 2.15 with a piper playing from the top of the wheelhouse. I walk back with a neighbour from Newton Street. It's a cold afternoon, but dry after an initial light shower at 10.45. Ann and Gordon have left for Kilbride in South Uist, which is where Ann is from. Carmel and John went on the plane to Edinburgh at midday. They read up on the island in the morning, as they knew very little about the history of the place. And history is so important, because it's the very history that has given rise to Gaelic music as we know it. The sun sets at 6pm, which brings Mod 2005 to a close!

Friday 21/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 6)

Today is the big day for the choristers staying with us. Victoria Gaelic Choir is participating in 3 events. The first is at 9 o'clock at the Sports Centre. The four, Ann, Gordon, Carmel and John, get up at 6.30 a.m. and have breakfast at 7.30. An hour later, they walk up to the venue, with mrs B and myself following 15 minutes later. The two pieces are sung straight after one another: Mor a'cheannaich and Mura bitha Domhnall. Victoria are on 3rd, after Ceolraidh and Aberdeen. And, I'm sorry to report that it's not good, not half as good as those going before. A bit stunned, mrs B and I walk across to the Nicolson Assembly Hall, for the second event which runs concurrently - a third competition started at nine in the Town Hall. We sit through the first few choirs, but Victoria is 12th on the list, so we return to the Sports Centre for a coffee. Then we have another look at the Gaelic Showcase. Victoria's rendition of Maraiche nan Tonn and their own choice (unknown to me) was once more not impressive. Their marks were lowest for both Gaelic and music. We're just too late at the Sports Centre for the adjucation of their early morning performance. On a lighter note, at the Nicolson, the winning choir was called Atomaig Piseag. This means: Atomic Kitten. Excited choristers spread over the area, but the Victoria choir members are glum. Return to Newton for lunch, then walk back in the middle of a second outbreak of rain this week. At the Nic Assembly hall, the final competition takes place with Victoria. They have to compete against choirs from Largs, Nairn and Aberdeen. Prescribed piece is Miann Cridhe. Victoria do well by my ears, but end up last. Only 10 points (out of 355) behind winners Aberdeen. Chi mi 'n Gearraidh is always a winner. This all finishes at 3 pm, so I wend my way down to the Sports Centre for the last competition. Ten choirs perform, but I only hear the last five. Memorable performance by (I think) Cumbernauld choir, who sing about a train journey from Inverness to Achnasheen, with all the right noises for a steamtrain. The MC for the event cracks a joke about the choir's conductor, who he calls the traindriver. The other man retorts that he prefers to be a conductor (sic). Inverness end up winners, which closes competitions for Mod 2005. Go back to Newton, where mrs B is cooking, when Isles FM announce that five pipebands will be playing in the town at 6 o'clock. We rush out to Cromwell Street, but are kept waiting for 50 minutes. It's packed out in the town centre, but good-humoured. Everybody is nattering to everybody else, which actually comes through very well on my recordings. The pipeband comes down Cromwell Street, but stops at the trafficlights - and not because they're at red. A camera crew appears with a bright light and the presenter of the late night Mod programme on BBC2. This lady is known as Giggles, even though she is 46. She marches out in front of the pipeband. They head down North Beach Street, round the corner into Castle Street and into South Beach Street. Mrs B and I cut across through the pedestrianized part of Cromwell Street and await the passage of the pipeband. Rain starts to fall, but that doesn't faze the crowd. When the pipeband turns into James Street to carry on to the Sports Centre, we go straight ahead into Shell Street and Newton Street. We finish supper there. An empty feeling pervades me - the Mod is over and done with. Although there is plenty of events on in the town, I can't be bothered with any of it. Hear later that the Vatersay Boys were too drunk to play at the County Hotel. The Canadians walk out of the room when the Mod program commences at 11.35. They did attend the final concert at the Sports Centre at 7.30, where it probably sank it that they really were not up to standard, sorry as I am to have to report this. Yesterday, a number of them sat in amongst the crowd in the Nicolson Assembly Hall.

Victoria Gaelic Choir (Guth nan Eilean) at the Tall Ships event on June 25th 2005. Picture taken from their website http://members.shaw.ca/ceol/

The below link is a recording of the songs they sang at the first competition, but not as performed on October 21st; this was recorded on February 22nd, 2005.
Much better. http://markreid.org/gaelic/moracheannaich.mp3

Picture below is taken just before the 2nd performance, in the Nicolson Assembly Hall.

Thursday 20/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 5)

Yesterday was the last day of children's competitions. From now on, it's purely adults. Three major competitions are decided at the Sports Centre: the Gold Medal, the Traditional Final and the Silver Pendant. I am NOT attending those events, as it transpires that you have to pay up separately for each of those. Entry fees are £6 for a whole day's access to competitions, but not to the the evening concert. When I get into the Town Hall, I find out that I only have to pay £3 today. I'm not there on the stroke of 9 a.m., but things are, as per usual, overrunning by about an hour. I catch the last two of the self-accompanied solo singers. Iain Blair, from Renfrewshire, is just about to start his second song. Judging by remarks from the adjudicators, his first song was a stop-start affair. Only 3 competitors out of the 6 listed turned up. Iain A Gordon, Nairn, gave a very nice rendition of Chi mi bheanna mor [I see big mountains], which was performed at the funeral of president Kennedy in 1961, which won him the trophy. Trophies are pretty grandiose affairs: silver cups, shields, batons, quaichs etc. Next up: folk groups. First is Mac Talla, an American formation. A breakdown in communication causes their downfall, and the fiddle doesn't seem to help proceedings either. Pity. Picture below from the Mac Talla website.

Second song is better, but the voice aren't the strongest part of the group. Next group up is Gleusda + 1. Officially, Gleusda has 4 performers, but a 5th has joined them for the occasion. Very good performance with 2 pieces again. First song is accompanied by a tenor recorder flute, a clarsach and a guitar. I don't know the name of the songs unfortunately. Ceol Chluaidh (Clyde Music) gives a good performance as well, with Iain Blair amongst the group members. Last band but certainly not least was a late entry, Rapad. They gave a Capercaillie-style (and level) puirt-a-beul, for which they were awarded very high marks indeed. I did not stay on for the quartets, as my backside was hurting from sitting in uncomfortable chairs. As it's Thursday, I go to the Baltic for the Thursday papers: Stornoway Gazette, Press and Journal, West Highland Free Press, Hebridean. The weather this week has been very good, sunny and dry, although cool. After lunch, I'm about to set off for the Nicolson when it starts to rain. It doesn't amount to very much. It's very busy in the town this week,more people about than usually. Stornoway is festooned with fairy lights and there are little signs to show where all the venues are. Banners enliven the railings around the town. It's suddenly a nice lively place. Head off down Island Road in a light drizzle, which stops by the time I reach the Nicolson. Two coaches are parked up along Smith Avenue, both from the same company. One carries the Glasgow Islay choir, the other the Govan choir. The afternoon session in the Nicolson Assembly hall deals with the Rural choirs. Others sing at the Town Hall. Here, we have 6 choirs, from: Harris, Lochs, Strathaird (Skye), Melvich (Sutherland), Tong and Back. They all sing Eilean an Fhraoich, in praise of the isle of Lewis. In addition, they sing a song of their own choice. After each song, they patiently wait for the adjudicators to make up their mind. It does drag proceedings out, but: it's a competition. Apart from the prize for the best choir, there are separate prizes for best marks in Gaelic, music and best conductor. In the end, Back choir wins. To give its full title: Coisir Ghaidhlig Sgire a'Bhac. Get your tongue round that! Forgot to mention in Monday's entry (October 17th) that there was a very nice exhibition in the Crush Hall in the Nic. It showcased history in Lochs, Ness and Carloway; CDs, T-shirts were on sale. Mrs B gave me a T-shirt for a present. There were also good learning books for Gaelic, published for Gaelic medium education by Storlann. Keep a quiet evening in - it's been a busy day. And my backside hurts. Just as well mrs B has those comfy chairs.

Wednesday 19/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 4)

Very early start today (7.50), as I am determined to attend a competition at the Royal British Legion Club at 9 a.m.. Five ladies will each sing a song from Songs of the Hebrides, collected round the turn of the 19th/20th century by Marjorie Kennedy-Fraser and Rev Kenneth MacLeod.

These songs first introduced me to Scots Gaelic. The actual scores contain both Gaelic and English. Although I've since learned that the translations can be a bit shaky, they've stuck. At 9 o'clock sharp, we commence. The ladies are accompanied on the piano, and all is well with no 1, Eilidh Davies, who went on to win. Jackie Cotter, from Edinburgh, was next up and had a breakdown of communication with the accompanist. Result: two stoppages and a ruffled singer. Ann Marie McLean and Pauline McCamley went through their pieces without mishap. Jillain Faith Thomson was absolutely consumed with nerves. A lump in the throat doesn't help either, with the result that Tha mi sgith didn't go to well. What a shame. On that note, it was across to the Town Hall for the lady solo singers.

They all had to sing Ghraidh an tig thu. The usual muddle was taking place, with people not appearing in the order they were billed. Several had withdrawn from competition. Fiona MacKenzie from Dingwall won. A little after 11, the competition was declared closed, and the adjudicators came to a conclusion. Next item on the morning's agenda: precenting.
If you want to hear what that sounds like, follow this link: http://www.bealheights.org/auto_images/1123797915Psalmcast016.mp3 which I took from www.podcast.com. It contains an introduction and is 15 minutes long. It also comprises other recordings of precenting from elsewhere within the Christian church.
There were 3 competitors. The first isn't too bad, but has difficulty going over the congregation. A lot of old folk have come in specially to take part in this. The precentors have to line 2 verses of a psalm of their choice. Number 2, Torquil MacLeod, an islander, does very well. Donald Angus Matheson unfortunately had a spot of bother. Torquil MacLeod wins hands down. Next on the agenda: a jaunt to the sports centre where they are singing in duets. Confusion reigns supreme, as there are several people who have not reported to the organisers. I sit in on proceedings until I get bored waiting. Return to Newton, but get picked up by mrs B's eldest son in Island Road. Yep, such a long way to go from there (not). He leaves for Glasgow today, through Tarbert and Skye at 2 pm. At 2.30 I head back into town to jump on the Mod Shuttlebus which is supposed to take me to the Primary School. Well, the lady in the bus station was very unhelpful and just told me to accost any Mod official; it's a Mod bus, nothing to do with the council. No sign of any bus, so I leg it all the way to Jamieson Avenue. Twenty minutes later, I slink into the Assembly Hall to listen to a batch of young girls, all singing whilst playing the clarsach, the Gaelic harp.

Little Josie Duncan from Laxdale carries off the main prize. A woman stands on the stage, like at all events, but she SHOUTS out the announcements for the competitions. We're overrunning by about an hour. Standards are quite high. One competition gets shifted to another room, so we get on with a competition in which only one person has entered. Esme Boone has travelled all the way from Northern Ontario in Canada. Unfortunately, her voice outdid the harp, and her performance did not merit awarding the trophy to her. Ouch. The final session was dedicated to groups of 3 clarsachan or more. The first group, Na h-Uiruisgean [Waterspouts] made a valiant effort, but why the heck they included a fiddle is beyond me. Not a strong performance, but they're yet young. Second was a very creditable performance by the City of Edinburgh Music School, who had 4 harpists out. Finally a group of 14 (yes, fourteen) harpists basically rearranged the hall to be able to fit in. Quite good, an an unusual combination. They won the competition. Return to Newton at 5.15. to help mrs B serve dinner to our 4 Canadians after they return from rehearsal at the Golf Club. This time round they do not stay behind after supper, and I can join mrs B for an evening meal not long afterwards.

Tuesday 18/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 3)

Day 2 of the Mod, and mrs B's Canadian guests arrive today. Two couples from the Victoria Gaelic Choir on Vancouver Island will be with us until Saturday. Before they arrive, I head down to the Sports Centre to listen to young precentors. Precenting is a practice in the Free (Presbyterian) Church, where a precentors sings out a psalm a line at a time, and the congregation pitches in. It gives a very peculiar sound. The children have a group of their classmates as 'congregation', whilst the precentor does his or her job. Return to Newton for lunch, and meet Carmel and John, as well as Ann and Gordon. They have choir practice at 5pm and 10am each day. This evening and tomorrow night they will be having dinner at mrs B's. Just before 2, I head into town, to listen to various school choirs in An Lanntair.

The first competition sees choirs from Glasgow, Tarbert [Harris], Back, Lionel and Shawbost competing by singing Bat' an Taillear and Cailleach a'Ghobhainn. The organisational nightmares become apparent whe we're kept waiting for a choir to turn up that has had to sing at a different venue elsewhere in the town. One person sits behind a keyboard on a table, for the sole purpose of giving the starting note. Two adjudicators are seated in front of the stage. One of them judges the Gaelic, the other the music. The adjudicators have got the relevant pieces of musical score in front of them. The choisters are all dressed uniformly. The first competition is won by the Sir E Scott School of Tarbert. The musical adjudicator give us a little speech, telling the audience and participants what he was expecting. The Gaelic adjudicator does likewise. She speaks in Gaelic, but gives the marks out in English at popular request. Maletta MacPhail is known to me after project Timbertown. I should point out that the Mod is all about Gaelic culture. As I neither speak nor understand the language, I have to select those competitions where a knowledge of Gaelic is not top of the list of priorities. I.e. I am focusing on music. I still have considerable problems, but just manage to keep abreast of proceedings. In this competition, North Lanark Choir had to withdraw. Well after the official starting time of 3 pm, the second choral competition of the afternoon commences. Participants here are from schools in Back, Tarbert, Lionel and Barvas. They sing Null do dh'Uibhist and 'S cian bho dh'fhag mi Leodhas. Choirs from Glasgow and North Lanark withdrew. At the adjudication, marks out of a 100 are awarded for Gaelic and for music. The aggregate total determines who wins, and for this competition (C73), it's Lionel. Barbara MacKenzie, one of mrs B's nieces, is delighted. The conductor of the Barvas choir pulled a face as he left the stage, but he was 3rd out of 4. In front of me, a boy of 10 is fidgeting and fiddling with the seats. People move back and forth along the rows between performances. At 4.30, proceedings draw to a close and I return to Newton. Mrs B is getting in a flap to get supper ready for the Canadians, but still manages to pull it all off at 7pm. I act as waiter, serving everything onto and off the table. Although I had my supper at a normal hour, the guests remained at their table until 9.30, and mrs B could not eat until 10.20. A fire is lit in the sitting room, and I entertain our foursome with some Gaelic songs on the keyboard. At times, I feel like a pied piper. Mrs B's granddaughter is drawn to my playing, as is her cousin. The Canadians like it. Ann and Gordon retire for the night fairly early, as they have had a long journey. I'm chatting to John and Carmel for quite some time. Bed at midnight.

Monday 17/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 2)

Today sees the start of the main children's competitions. Mrs B's granddaughter is off bright and early to take part in two competitions: singing, at An Lanntair, at 9 a.m.. Mrs B and myself join her at 10.30 in the Old Gym at the Nicolson Institue for a recitation. I know the poem almost as well as the lass. It's about a dog who carries a big bone. When he comes to a river, he looks in and sees another big dog with a bone. he drops his bone and jumps at the other dog. Splash! Afterwards, we wend our way towards the Sports Centre across the road. The Old Gym was a bit delapidated, but the Sports Centre is nice and new.

The big games hall has been filled with hundreds of seats, staging, banners for the Mod and its sponsorts. As well as 4 BBC TV cameras. Before we go in, we meet up with one of mrs B's nephews. Two of his daughters are singing in a duet. We sit beside the windows screening the swimming pool. Then we head into the hall to listen to the duets. I record two of them on my MP3-player. Having done that, we all head back to Newton for lunch. The lassie is disappointed she did not win anything. She had won in the local Glasgow Mod earlier in the year. As compensation, she is allowed to go and stay with her cousins in the family caravan at Reef, Uig. After dinner, I take mrs B up to hear the prize winners' concert in the Sports Centre. As we go out the strains of the pipe band waft on the evening wind, but we can't place it. Turns out they're right outside the sports centre. We go into the packed hall to listen to some remarkable performances by youngsters as young as 5. One little boy goes wildly off key as he has to reach an upper G four times. Some very creditable instrumentalists, such as accordion, melodeon, piano and piper. A 16-year old lad, a cousin of mrs B's, pipes the concert open. He sweeps the board every time he takes part in a competition. One girl of 5 can barely be heard as she goes through her song, but everybody keeps completely quiet. Concert finishes at 9.15. As we head back down Island Road, I have to catch mrs B as she stumbles over an unevenness in the road. No damage done.

Saturday 16/10/05

Another bright, sunny morning. At the breakfast table, we can see a submarine leaving the port. Tell Elaine which churches she can attend. Also advise her that it's possible to walk round to Arnish Lighthouse, a 5 mile walk one-way. Alternatively, it's the Castle Grounds or the Iolaire Monument at Holm. The family with children set off to Uig to join others staying there in a caravan. It's absolutely fabulous weather for the beach and kids. Mrs B and me toddle off for a walk through the Castle Grounds. As she has a degree of visual impairment (only has 50% of the field of vision in each eye, namely the right hand side), she prefers to have someone to her right hand side to aid with balance. Off we go at 2pm, at 2 mph instead of the usual 4 mph. Through a virtually deserted town centre. Have a look at the window displays in the shops, which are full of Mod-related stuff. Carry on over the Bayhead Bridge and left into the Castle Grounds. Cars whizz along the lane, a nuisance. Nice views of the town - you basically walk around it on the far side of the harbour. Have a break at Cuddy Point, until an undesired couple come up. A lot of wildlife in the water; grebes, cormorants, seals. Blackberries are ripe and present in good numbers. We stop at the viewpoint just before the Creed River, to admire the views. Then return the way we came. Take the odd break or two on the way, as you do with an older person. As we pass Somerfields, a woman sags onto the pavement like a sack of potatoes. She is blind drunk, and it's only 4.40pm. Her partner is not much better, but at least he can (sort of) keep to his feet. Elaine also had a nice time round the shore at the coastguard station. Mrs B's son returns at 7.30. His youngest is out for the count and does not reawaken until the next morning. The girl is practising her song and the poem she has to recite in the morning. In the end we all know about The old man whose cows ran off to the glen but do I care? They're not mine. And about the dog who jumped into the water to catch the other dog he saw there with his bone! A very late night ensues.

Saturday 15/10/05 - Royal National Mod (Day 1)

The image at the top of the entry is the logo of Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, Western Isles Council, the local authority here. Competitions today are instrumental, and I'm not attending these.

Fairly bright day today. Elaine goes off to Callanish at lunchtime. Mrs B's eldest son comes to stay with two of his youngest children, aged 2 and 7. The oldest will be taking part in the children's competitions on Monday. The younger child is a bright spark, very clever for his age. Neither of them are any bother. Go out for a paper in the afternoon, and read it in the grass of Green Island, just off Goat Island. Three boats come down the channel from town, with music playing on board. It's bright, sunny and warm. Not had weather like this for weeks. Have supper with the family present. In the evening I twice venture out to the British Legion club to see Scheihallion. First time round, at 9.15, there was no band. An hour later, the band is present and playing, so I shell out £3. Place fills up with regulars, aged 50-60, who reckon they're that much part of the furniture that they don't have to pay. Don't stay for very long at all. Not impressed with the folk out on the streets. But that's all part of being in a Highland town I suppose. Moon shining brightly.

Friday 14/10/05

Bright and extremely clear weather this morning. The mainland mountains at Applecross stood out as clear as anything, and the summit of the Storr near Portree popped out over the hill west of Arnish Light. Visibilityup to 60 miles. It decreases as the morning wears on; the lenticularis clouds break and by 4pm, Applecross has disappeared. Mrs B is clearing out her house, including a batch of computers that belonged to a failed business of one of her sons. Continue improving my webpages. Later in the evening, an Australian lady arrives for the weekend. At mrs B's request, I take her into town to attend the opening ceremony of the Mod in An Lanntair, the new art gallery that was opened only a fortnight ago. It now has a light installation, prepared by local school children. On arrival at the gallery we can just about squeeze in. A pair of wireless headphones is handed to us, to receive a simultaneous translation of the Gaelic into English. As the Mod is a celebration of the Gaelic culture, it's all in Gaelic. Which I do not understand. Two speeches, one from a Calmac official who says that he's from the company that makes you seasick. The other from Inverness MSP John Farquhar Munro, who tells his audience to take the opportunity to help Gaelic forward - or lose it altogether. Some music in between. Take Elaine for a walk around town, but the presence of the local yobs doesn't exactly boost Stornoway's first impression. There were to be fireworks from the Castle Grounds, but no such thing. Apparently, it was from Goat Island, but I saw nor heard anything at all. Return to mrs B's at 10.30 pm for a drink and a chat. Elaine is in the UK on a work exchange visit for disability work in Glasgow. She does have roots in the UK, in Blackburn, Lancashire, to be precise. Dad was German; mum had 11 siblings and emigrated to Australia in the 1960s under a scheme that promised a £10 passage (those that took it up were known as £10 pommies in Aus). On arrival over there, the people were told to cough up the balance of the actual fare. They were split up and housed in poor temporary accommodation. Bed at midnight.

Royal National Mod 2005

Royal National Mod 2005

I'm a bit behind with my entries as I have been extremely busy (by my current standards) with the Royal National Mod 2005, which took place in Stornoway between October 14th and 22nd. I'm going to try to insert weblinks in the journal to give readers the opportunity to hear the recordings I made at the competition. Sound quality is relatively poor, as I used an MP3-player with recording capability. But it gives a nice soundpicture. I am spending this afternoon (October 24th) updating the diary which I have not been keeping up-to-date for a week, after which I'll update this journal as well.

VIVI Awards

Thanks to everybody for the congratulations, and congrats to all the other nominees.

Thursday 13/10/05

Bright sunshine at breakfast time, with some scattered cumuli on the horizon. The Torridon mountains are just visible in the distance. Showers are not impossible, and they duly materialise at midday. Could see the upper part of the cumulonimbus looming up about 15 minutes before it let rip. Another one, not as severe, pops along at two o'clock. Just as I go out to buy papers. Somerfields gave me a voucher for a free Bounty bar, so I obtain it from there, thankyou. A bulk carrier is moored alongside the ferry pier, discharging sand. A fleet of lorries goes back and forth to take it away. The carrier arrived at 9 in the morning. Sunset at 6.30, bright but not as spectacular as two days ago. Am still busy with webpages. Hear a horrendous story about someone with suspected appendicitis. Doctor pushes in the lower right quadrant of the abdomen, person screams, but does not send her to hospital. I advise her strongly to do so. A waxing moon rises over the bay, just like one and two months ago. Very quiet evening during which nothing stirs. Everybody is gripped by the Sudoku craze. "I've got a 2, a 5 and an 8, where can they go?". Mrs B is trying out her new sewing machine. I am trying out the auto-accompaniments on the keyboard.

Wednesday 12/10/05

Cloudy morning with some rain in mid morning. Gorgeous sunset last night though. Learned that Skye and Northern Ireland had a similar sunset last night.Visibility up to 45 miles. Iffy weather continues through the day, with visibility worsening gradually. Go into town at midday to buy stamps and new pens. I also post five letters. As all those letters are handwritten, I've gone through the gelpens like a dose of salts. Two pens have lasted me a mere 19 days. Fortunately, Woolworths sell them at 69p per 2, which is 4 times cheaper than the Baltic, which go at £1.35 a piece. Mrs B serves me lunch and supper today, both very nice. Continue to upgrade the website and its adjacent pages [website now deleted following the closure of AOL Hometown in October 2008]. The extent of the devastation wreaked by last weekend's earthquake in Pakistan is slowly becoming clear. Sunset at 6.35, so the evenings are becoming long and dark.

Tuesday 11/10/05

Sunny morning, just a change. Now it's the turn of the rest of the country to suffer some autumnal weather. Received letters from the homefront as well as more follow-up on HMS Timbertown. This time it's an elderly couple from Islivig, only a mile out of Brenish. Have to get out there later this week. By email comes a most valuable piece of info, which places it all in the proper context. The men who were in the camp deemed it to have been a shame. WShile they were sleeping, their relatives, friends and neighbours fought and died for their country. Nonetheless, the people of Uig (and the island at large) do want to know what happened to their folk who had been interned. We're now 90 years down the line, and it's an integral, undeniable part of the island's history. There is the most glorious sunset, and I'm kickin myself for not having an operational camera. Elsewhere in the UK, rainfall totals in excess of 100 mm causes flooding. It's been a nice sunny day in the Western Isles. Frontal cloud did come across later, but no rain.

Monday 10/10/05

Cold and wet day today, but little wind. Not a lot doing, apart from keeping an eye on the rather depressing news from Pakistan. The response from Pakistanis in the UK is staggering. I receive a postcard from an elderly gentleman in Brenish, in response to a letter I wrote to him regarding proejct Timbertown. Unfortunately, he has not got much to contribute. I'll take up his invite for a visit at my convenience - Brenish is well-nigh impossible to reach by public transport. Later, with the rain continuing, mrs B serves me her spag bol, which is very nice.

Sunday 09/10/05

Today I commence entries in my 6th notebook, at page 722.

The showers continue through the night. At 4 a.m., I look out and see the constellation of Orion in the southeast - a sure sign that we're heading into winter. More continuous rain moves in during the morning, and the wind picks up. We are warned to expect yet another force 9 gale, with gusts up to force 11. In Central America, Hurricane Stan has wreaked havoc because of large amounts of rainfall. This caused mudslides and floods which swept entire villages and towns away. The death toll in the Asian earthquake rises to a staggering 19,000. The images defy description. The Alladale estate in the Highlands wishes to (re)introduce wolves, a controversial proposal. A fence round the relevant area would restrict the animals' freedom to roam, but also the right to roam of people. This is actually a legal right in Scotland, since earlier this year. Wolves left to roam unhindered would cause mayhem amongst livestock and alarm in centres of population. Bad idea in other words. Until 3.30 pm, windspeeds are of force 7 sustained. When the spray starts to fly across the basin again, it's clear we're at gale force 8 once more. Readings at 15.50 quote windspeeds at Benbecula of 46 mph and 39 mph here - force 8. Gusts at Benbecula at 61 mph, force 10, and 51 mph here - force 9. As I browse the map of the Scottish westcoast, I notice Tiree reporting nil mph, which is odd. Particularly if the gust speeds are 40-60 mph. Methinks the equipment has blown down, an opinion shared with a fellow weather amateur down in Falkirk. Fortunately, readings are resumed at 8 pm.

Saturday 08/10/05

Very sunny start to the day but cloud bubbles up to give a few sharp showers as from the midday mark. Forecast is very poor for tomorrow. Last Friday, I reported the lifeboat and helicopter rushing out to salvage a boat. It turns out that the boat was an old banger that was being taken round to Uig, on the West Side. Three miles outside the harbour, the engine blew up and the crew were left stranded. They left at dusk, 7 pm, which is a silly time to make a 50 mile trip round the island. As I'm writing this, 2.15 pm, the helicopter and lifeboat have once again gone out. Go into town for a paper, envelopes and a new notebook. Notice two Royal Navy vessels at the quay outside Amity House. One is HMS Shoreham, the other I cannot discern the name of. It's busy in the supermarket. Later I share a portion of macaroni cheese with mrs B. I take part in a BBC Test the Nation quiz, about the English language, in which I score 51/70, about average. A massive earthquake has shaken northern Pakistan, leaving thousands dead.

Friday 07/10/05

Sunny start to a very, very windy day. The southerly wind is continuing at force 7 to 8. Yesterday, a fueltanker overturned on the road to Grimshader. Don't think anything was spilt, and its contents were decanted into another tanker once it was righted. Keep monitoring the weatherreports through the day on the internet. Winds varying between 30 and 40 mph, with gusts in excess of 50 mph (force 6 to 8, gusts to force 10). Malin Head tops the league with a force 11 gust, 58 mph. Couple of other news items today. The man who had gone missing in Skye since September 24th has been found at last - unfortunately, dead - at the head of Loch Coruisk. At midday, we suffer a powercut, because the roadworkers out the back cut our powercable. Foam flies around the Newton basin (and against the windows) until 4 o'clock, when the rain starts. Gulls hunker down in sheltered positions, as the wind is too strong for them. At 4.15 the wind decreases with the onset of the rain. The ferries in the Western Isles are disrupted. No ferries between Berneray and Leverburgh, or between Uig and Lochmaddy or Tarbert; the ferry that left SY at 7.15 this morning has remained in Ullapool all day. You need to ring Calmac for that, no info on that in the media at all. A Royal Navy vessel has come into the bay at Arnish for shelter at 3 o'clock. At 6.30pm, mrs B and myself went to An Lanntair, the arts centre, to see the play I was a beautiful day by Iain F MacLeod. On the way there, it's blowing and raining hard, and it's quite a struggle to get into town. Hardly anyone on the streets. Before the play commences, at 8 o'clock, we intend to have supper in the restaurant, which is situated adjacent to the auditorium. We both order monkfish, which is fairly prompt in coming. However, the sweet just does not come, and by 7.50 we really have to start going into the auditorium. So, I cancel the sweets and we head downstairs. Restaurant staff none too happy, because it's of course a slight on their service. Which they themselves admit is slow. Salutory lesson: go there in plenty of time. You have a nice view from the restaurant windows - when it's light. The ferry terminal looks as if they're expecting a boat. The play is billed as 'a deeply moving but hilarious tale of resilience, survival and cartography' (quote from the Traverse Theatre website http://www.traverse.co.uk/. I am afraid I found it a disjointed and confused story that I'm not even going to try to summarise. Didn't like it, full stop. There was an interval around the 9.15 mark. As the theatre was nearly filled to capacity (which is 239), there was not enough time to buy drinks. The plague of all theatres. The performance ended at 10.15. When we went outside, the wind had almost dropped away, and only a light rain was left. This was in sharp contrast to earlier in the day.

Thursday 06/10/05

Another overcast day, but dry and breezy. Sun breaks through for a minute. Mrs B professes tiredness and returns to bed after serving me breakfast. I go to the library to check emails and the like. Return to Newton £57 richer, as I've won on the lottery. Take back a wad of 6 papers, full of the Mod as far as the local press is concerned. One story in the Press and Journal leaves me speechless. A youth choir from Glasgow had wanted to participate in the Mod (14-22 October here in SY), but had to pull out as no accommodation was available for them. They have instead left for an event in Canada. Local rumour has it that the Mod will not be held in Stornoway again. Wind increases by nightfall, with spray flying over the causeway. Exhilerating experience to walk across there!

Wednesday 05/10/05

Isles FM starts off the day with a seven minutes' rundown of the local rogues' gallery. It was court day yesterday, with mainly car- and drink-related offences passing by the sheriff. And there's the tarvern at Borve, West Side, wants a 7-day license - not likely. The ferry never sailed at 7.15, due to technical problems. A fishing boat ventures out, but it comes straight back in again. The Isle of Lewis sails at 2.45, an hour past its lunchtime departure time. The grass out on the moors has turned brown again, a sure sign of the onset of winter. Weather continues very windy force 6, but temperature 14C. The lights on the causeway are back on again.

Tuesday 04/10/05

Awake to a cloudy and windy day. We have one other guest in, who goes out early. Roadworks on the road behind the house. I have received the last batch of pictures from the photographers' and go to the library to scan them in. Have to tweak the eclipse pics to be able to clearly see the sun. We have a German lady in, who has come up from Harris. She isn't too happy, apparently. Weathern isn't brilliant, but not that bad. Mrs B. prepares my dinner, baked salmon. Very nice. We polish off a bottle of wine between us - Chateau Migraine. Sun sets at 6.50, which means we've lost nearly 4 hours since June.

Monday 03/10/05

Annular Solar Eclipse

This morning, we're having an annular solar eclipse. The phenomenon commences at 8.50, and ends at 11.20. Right on cue for maximum obscuration at 10.00, the clouds move away to leave us a clear view of the eclipse. Up here, 45% of the sun is obscured by the moon, in Plymouth it's 65% and in Madride, Spain, 90%. Down in Spain, the moon covers the sun's disk, but leaves a ring of fire around it. Taken a few pics, will have to see how they come out when they're processed. Try to get live pictures from the Internet, but everybody is trying to do that, and I'm not getting through. Sites includes the Institute of Astrophysics at the University of Madrid, a Belgian site showing images from Grimsbergen. Look myself through welding glasses, and take pictures through that. By 11.00 the percentage of obscuration quickly runs down to zero, which is reached at 11.25. The clouds return at that time as well. Next eclipse in March 2006, but not visible from these latitudes.

Sunday 02/10/05

Dreich morning with clouds briefly breaking at noon. We go out in a car to Bostadh, in Great Bernera. Route runs along the Pentland Road. The sheep beside the cattlegrid outside Marybank, which has been there since April 11th, is now sheepsoup. Down to Achamor, with a nice view over the Lochs area. Belt down the A858 to Garynahine, then turn left into the B8011. The sun shines on the houses at Linshader, but the gloom quickly returns. The levels in the Grimersta River are some 30 to 40 cms above what they were in July, and the water crashes over the weirs along the full width of the river. Up the B8059 to Great Bernera. First to the little beach at Tobson. I see a little black face in a cavity under the roadway, after spotting a lithe black form darting in there. Could be a mink, was too small for an otter. On to Bostadh Beach, where it's cool and windy. The tide is well out, but once on the skerries it gets very, very windy. The tide is washing up huge fronds of seaweed, which must have been physically torn from the seabed by the recent gales. The sand is fast encroaching on the Iron Age House, which is locked up. The smell of peatreek indicates that it is still open to the public, probably until the end of October. We head back to SY with some level of anxiety, because the petrol gauge reads empty. Fortunately, there is still enough fuel in the tank to cover the 30 miles to Stornoway, and we make Engebretsen on time. They are the only fuelpump open on a Sunday here. After that, we drive to the Coastguard Station, Lower Sandwick and the Castle Grounds. Mrs B is stunned by the level of devastation wreaked by the January hurricane. Return at 3pm to have a late lunch. Mrs B's son and partner return to Glasgow at 4.30, which leaves an empty house. The afternoon closes dreich, wet and misty. After sunset, at 7 pm, darkness falls quickly. Following the late lunch, I have no appetite for a full meal, so I gladly take up the offer of a cheese toastie from mrs B.

Saturday 01/10/05

Another month over, and autumn is firmly established in the Western Isles. A very cold northwesterly wind blows in showers at regular intervals. They are heavy. Temp 11C this morning. In between the showers, the sun comes out. Breakfast is at 9. And no, getting caught out in those showers is not funny. David and Bessie leave on the ferry at 1.45. There is a rash of showers about, you can see 4 at any given time. Today the Arts Centre is open to the public. In celebration, they let off a large number of blue balloons which come blowing past on the strong wind. Go out to have a look at 2 o'clock. Don't stay for long, because it's too busy. It's fairly impressive for such a small location, but a wee bit on the pokey side. In the evening, we have dinner at the Crown Hotel. Go there at 7.15. Starters consist of a drink, a bowl of soup; main meal venison, salmon or monkfish; cheesecake or sticky toffeepudding after. Another drink afterwards supplements the red and white wine. I give a tinkle on the restaurant piano (badly out of tune), but Canan nan Gaidheal goes down a treat with the rest of the restaurant guests. We return to 26 Newton at 11.05. The town centre is full of yobs, not very nice. Bedtime is 1 a.m..

Friday 30/09/05

A very dark and dreich morning greets us round the breakfast table. The lighthouse at Arnish is on, and there is a heavy drizzle. As per usual, the weather changes round through the day, with sunshine and showers through the afternoon. At lunchtime, mrs B's second son turns up with his new partner. He has come to attend the opening of the new arts centre, An Lanntair (The Lantern), located at the corner of Kenneth Street and Francis Street. It has taken 30 years for Stornoway to get a dedicated arts venue. Before that, it was the old council chamber in the Town Hall. There was a huge outcry when the decision was taken to build An Lanntair in its current position. It deprived SY of a carpark. Aww. The public will be able to view it tomorrow. As we're enjoying a pastabake, the lifeboat races out. When we have a look out of the window, at 7.30, a helicopter is hovering somewhere behind the coastguard station. I can also discern a boat, which seems to vanish. Either it's gone down, or it's the next shower. Mrs B and I walk to the coastguard station to have a look. The failing light makes it difficult to see, but the chopper is out there with its searchlight trained on the area. The scene of the incident appears to be around Holm Point, about 2 miles to the south. At 8.20, after dark, the lifeboat returns with a boat strapped alongside. It's cold outside with a strong southwesterly. Temperature 12C. The evening closes with a convivial evening until about 12.45.

Thursday 29/09/05

Fairly bright morning, but the odd shower does wet things around 10. Head out to see the optometrist about a new prescription for glasses, which is duly forthcoming. Mr Doig is runnign 20 minutes late. Dive into the library and come up with interesting references for the author of the HMS Timbertown website. Next call is the butcher's for some mince, required for my leek, tatties and minceball supper tonight. Mrs B puts a brave face on it, but I don't think it's a raging success. We're having two guests in, a gentleman and his wife. He is the membership secretary for the Merchant Navy Association. An evening has been organised at the British Legion for ex-mariners. Apparently, 12 new members signed up. Upon his return, David tells us quite a few stories. Mrs B can add to that, as her husband was chief engineer on board a merchantman. We all go to bed at 12.45

Wednesday 28/09/05

Yet another day with awful weather. Pouring rain with strong winds, but not the full gales we had earlier in the week. Mrs B goes out for a haircut, and returns rather wet. Rain subsides at 3 o'clock. I don't go out myself until 4 pm, when it has turned dry. Sun comes out at five, leaving a pleasantly sunny late afternoon. A few news headlines caught my eye today:

Highland Council reviews its renewable energy policy, and states they should not focus on just windpower. This is unpredictable and output intermittent.

A man is jailed for J-walking on the A9. He walked into the carriageway north of Perth to ask for directions. His movements caused a car to swerve and crash into the central reservation at 70 mph. The vehicle flipped over and caught fire. One of the occupants was ejected, the other managed to scramble to safety, both unhurt. In the meantime, the J-walker approached the shaken pair to ask "Which is the way to Inverness?"

Weather conditions awful in the Highlands too. Fort William was doused in 100 mm (4 in) of rain yesterday. This left 10 cm (4 in) of water in the basement section of the Nevisport store in the town.

Tuesday 27/09/05

Although the wind has dropped from force 7-9 to force 5-8, it's still very blustery. Showers continue to rattle through from the southwest, and they're big ones. Behind glass, it's warm in the sun. Kids are taken to school at 8.40, in the taxi driven by their maternal grandmother. One minute later, I go downstairs for breakfast. I've recently asked mrs B to omit sausages from the menu, because I'm not walking (that much). The ferry is very late in leaving for Ullapool, at 3 pm. She goes way south, before veering east to make for Ullapool. Went into town shortly afterwards to get papers and a small pencilcase. As mrs B is making supper tonight, I can leave Somerfields to one side. At 3.50, Border Heather, our tanker, calls in to deliver liquid fuels. Natural gas is brought in on a different vessel. All fuels are held in a small depot at the corner of Shell Street and James Street. Large pipes take it through to the powerstation on Battery Point. Road tankers deliver oil to individual householders. Many houses are heated by kerosine; in the town there is piped gas. In outlying areas, people use propane (Calorgas) for cooking. The orange gasbottles are a familiar sight around rural Scotland. Kerosine is stored around houses in large plastic drums, which hold 250 litres. Fuel is piped into the house through a fixed line. These tanks are a target for fuel thieves. Discover that there are also 16x16 Sudoku puzzles, in which the numbers 0 to 9 and the letters A to F only feature once in each row, column and 4x4 square.

Monday 26/09/05

What a horrendous day, rain lashing, wind howling. Isles FM relays the usual panoply of misdeeds. It almost sounds like a song: "Car crashes, window smashes, drunken splashes on South Beach". Several of the culprits are due in court today. The kiddies all tootle off to school, bar one who suffers from school sickness. A check on the internet reveals we're having winds of force 7, with gusts up to force 9. The ferry is 2 hours late leaving at 4 o'clock, instead of the timetabled 13.45, and will not return out of Ullapool tonight. The Lochboisdale ferry isn't running at all. Rain lets up after 4, although hefty showers continue. The wind continues to howl through cracks, and it suddenly feels like winter. Dark by 7.30, and the ferry is not coming back until tomorrow lunchtime. We're really on an island ...

Sunday 25/09/05

Reasonable if cloudy day weatherwise. Today I carry on working on weblogs, doing Sudoku puzzles and other minor activities. Too lazy for a walk, ahem. Mrs B cooks supper for her young charges, one of whom doesn't turn up until 2½ hours after the others. She serves me supper as well, a nice roast with veg and spuds. We finish with a jelly and mandarin orange segments and custard. Catch up with some of my on-line contacts in the USA, who complain of a drought!

Saturday 24/09/05

Today we are getting 4 new guests, but they don't pay. We're talking about mrs B's grandchildren, varying in age between 10 and 15. Their parents are away to Paris for a few days. The weather is very, very cold all of a sudden. The wind is a bitter easterly, and the mercury is stuck at a miserly 12C. At least it's dry. The equinox has passed, and it gets dark at 7pm now. Spend the day working on weblogs, the project and other things.

Spend the day glued to BBC and CNN to monitor the progress of Hurricane Rita. This weathersystem is due to make landfall near Galveston TX, and is a tropical hurricane of category 4. As soon as it is over land, the system collapses into a deluge of rain. Wind speeds of up to 200 kph / 125 mph. Although there is a lot of damage and flooding, the anticipated devastation on the Katrina scale has not materialized. It is still horrendous though.

Late in the evening, the eldest grandson has not returned by midnight, so mrs B pulls out all the stops to get hold of him. He duly reappears 20 minutes later.

Friday 23/09/05

Started the morning by attending the performance by the puppetteers in the local Sports hall. It is directed primarily at 6- and 7-year olds. Very nice, good set. Read a few chapters in the Roll of Honour (1914 onwards), but they do not add anything to my knowledge. Weather pretty awful, heavy showers with the odd glimpse of the sun. Not cold, that's due for the weekend. The showers subside by nightfall.

Thursday 22/09/05

Another day with pretty awful weather. Go out before lunch to get all the Thursday papers in. The Gazette decided not to print my letter, OK, I was cheeky to them. But then, would you respect a newspaper that prints Bulling instead of Bullying, and Oppostion instead of Opposition? Received some more emails regarding project HMS Timbertown, but whether I want more background information regarding the Lewis contribution to WW1 and 2, I don't know. My Dutch weblogs do elicit some responses. The entry regarding the windfarm drew a surprisingly positive one: cover the country in windturbines. There are 3 more guests in, puppetteers from Ireland.

The Iolaire Disaster

On New Year's Eve 1918, a group of sailors from the Isle of Lewis were heading home after 4 years of war. They had gathered at the dockside of Kyle of Lochalsh, 80 miles west of Inverness. The group was too large to be carried on board the regular ferry, the Sheila. The Navy decided to charter HMY Iolaire [Eagle] to carry everybody home in time for Hogmanay. Unfortunately, the weather was poor at the time, and the vessels sailed too late for an arrival at Stornoway before midnight. At 7.30 pm, Iolaire cast off and headed north into the Little Minch. Six hours later, after a rough crossing, the yacht approached Stornoway Harbour. A fishing boat noticed the Iolaire on its approach to the harbour and the skipper did think it was bearing quite far to starboard. This assessment was correct. At 1.30 a.m., on January 1st 1919, the Iolaire ran aground on the Beasts of Holm, a reef 2 miles south of Stornoway. Although these rocks are only 20 yards from shore, it proved to be very difficult to gain the shore. There was quite a swell running, and the strong winds made it practically impossible to launch a salvage operation. Furthermore, the flares, let off by Iolaire as a distress signal were observed in the town, but people thought they were let off in celebration. Sailors jumped overboard from Iolaire with a cable round their waist to establish a link to shore. The lifeboats were unusable. Ninety minutes after the stranding, the boiler exploded, the Iolaire turned 90° and sank. Two hundred and five sailors drowned in the dark waters of Stornoway Harbour. The coastguard managed to save 75 men. The bodies of 205 were retrieved from the waters around Stornoway in the hours, days and weeks after the disaster. The fiery beacons that were due to be lit to celebrate the homecomings after the war remained dark and cold. Every village and family has been affected by this catastrophe. Remember that the population of Lewis at this time was only 14,000. The last survivor of the Iolaire disaster died in 1992. The people of the island have always found it very hard to discuss the catastrophe. After the loss of 205 souls, the island plunged into a deep depression. In 1923, the Canadian government advertised in the Stornoway Gazette for young folk to come over to work in agriculture and industry. Four hundred boarded ships like Metagama to start a newlife in the new world. To this day, young people leave the island after secondary school to go to university on the mainland or find a job.

The Lewis Windfarm

Late 2004, an application was submitted by multinational company Amec to construct a park of 234 windturbines on the Isle of Lewis. Each turbine would measure about 450 feet in height. These machines would be built over a distance of 40 miles, from Ness in the far north to Stornoway in the east. A simple calculation shows that this means one turbine for every 250 metres. Local people are fiercely opposed. Western Isles Council does not see it that way. They are quite pleased with the anticipated profit of £166m per year, which would more than annul the Western Isles trade deficit, currently at £163m per annum. A public consultation exercise took place, and objections were raised. By the RSPB, local trout breeders, naturalists and others. The centre of Lewis is one huge peatbog. Peat to a depth of 20 feet, which is a unique habitat for various species of wildlife and plantlife. The construction of these windmills would cause irretrievable damage. Only for the construction alone, 100 miles of road is required. In spite of the fact that 90% of the population is opposed, Western Isles Council has approved the windpark. The community councils have previously approved the proposals as well. However, there have been three separate instances where councillors were called in for a carpeting by their local populace. The complaint was that the councillors allegedly failed to represent local opinion.

It is central government policy that fossil fuels be phased out by 2020, to be replaced by windpower. The people of Lewis are not opposed to wind energy. If they had their way, each village would have a few turbines for their own energy requirements. The huge turbines envisaged are to generate electricity for industry in the Scottish Central Belt, between Edinburgh and Glasgow. It should be taken there along a 400 kV high voltage cable from Ullapool to Denny, near Stirling, along a 200 mile corridor. This requires huge pylons, and these proposals have already generated a vociferous campaign of opposition. Current state of affairs is that the proposal has been put in front of the Scottish Executive. I think it will be approved. Jack MacConnell, the Scottish First Minister, is a pal of British PM Tony Blair. The fierce discussions in the community councils of Laxdale, Airidhantuim and Ness, give an indication of the reactions to an approval by Holyrood. I doubt however that it will make any difference.

There is a second windpark foreseen for the island. 133 turbines are to be built in the derilict district of Eishken, in southeastern Lewis. Its population was forcibly evicted in the 1820s. Current estate owner Philip Oppenheimer can do what he pleases, and this could make him a billionnaire. The surrounding districts of North Harris, Aline, Kinloch and South Lochs are home to 500 people. They have been promised a share in the profits, provided they join the relevant Trust. If they don't join, they will not share. The only thing is, that the area of Eishken and the adjacent Harris mountains, are of great scenic value. This will be severely damaged by a row of turbines.

I await the decision by the Scottish Executive.

Wednesday 21/09/05

Speak to the Aussies at breakfast. Eila, the mother, is here to visit her very elderly sister elsewhere in town. It's likely to be the last time the two will meet, as Eila lives in Queensland, and is not in great health. Her son, daughter and daughter-in-law are along as well. Weather: wet and windy. Go to town for a filing case, pens and a stint at the library computer. Find long emails from Donald MacLeod, my Aberdeen contact, who has provided me with a lot of info on the website I quoted yesterday.

Tuesday 20/09/05

Nice and sunny if slightly breezy day. My project on Lewis internees in Holland during the First World War is yielding some reactions. Have look on http://www.wereldoorlog1418.nl/englishcamp/lewis/index.html. Unusual piece of history. I am now going to put it in front of the 13 historical societies in Lewis in order to find more names and backgrounds. Went into town to browse for books and papers. There is a huge lack of accommodation in Stornoway, strangely enough. Loads of people knocking on mrs B's door, but she is full tonight. We have four Aussies coming off the ferry at 8. They head off for supper at half past eight, but only the Chinese restaurant is open for business. Bought a book "Isolation Shepherd" about a man who lived in the wilderness around Loch Monar, west of Inverness, in the late 1950s. After the construction of a dam, this area is now under water.

Monday 19/09/05

The gale continued until midday. Big sheets of water coming over the causeway and Green Island, white riders in Newton Basin and out in the Minch. At 12 o'clock, the clouds broke, the sun came out and a cruiseliner sailed into port. The Alexander von Humboldt has been in before. She had arrived today out of Invergordon, on the east coast, after a pretty lively 20 hours at sea. By 8 pm she blew her whistle three times to say good-bye; for me it was the good-bye to summer as well in a way. The cruiseliner departed for Tobermory, Mull. It's not cold outside. You can find out about all the cruiseliners on the net. The ferry had trouble docking tonight on account of an unusually high tide. It was so high that the pedestrian walkway could not be used. Footpassengers had to disembark along the vehicle deck.

Sunday 18/09/05

Well, not much to say about today either. Did not show my face out of doors at all, just looked out at the ever-changing aspect of the Arnish hills. As the afternoon wore on, the wind began to pick up and come evening time a gale had blown up from the south. I noticed that the streetlamps on the causeway to Goat Island had not come on at dusk. There are sheets of water coming over, which may have disrupted the electrics.

Saturday 17/09/05

Headache has virtually disappeared by morning, thank goodness. When the lunchtime ferry comes in, the volume of traffic in Newton Street reaches a crescendo. Went into town to pick up a prescription for mrs B - strange to be on the other side of the counter. After an abortive visit to the library (no terminals available), I buy my weekend meals at Somerfields. This supermarket is to start home deliveries as of October 5th. I am invited by mrs B to join her in her supper, so as my motto is When temptation comes, you give right in, I take her up on it.

Friday 16/09/05

Another bright if cool morning. The cargo ferry was late in arriving, 8.45 a.m. as opposed to the usual 7.30. Had a chat about island affairs with the other guests. Headache bothering me again today, to no small extent. Caught up with some writing and went into town for shopping. The sick sailors are being returned to their boat by helicopter. Prior to departure, their picture was taken in Francis Street. Went for an amble to the bottom of Miller Road to see whether the boat was visible across Sandwick Bay, but no such luck. I reckon she was anchored south of Holm Point, out of sight. It stays nice and sunny throughout, albeit with highlevel clouds. Later in the evening, thicker cloud moves in. Make it a very early night to shake off that rotten headache.

Thursday 15/09/05

The American disappeared on the early bus out of Stornoway to Callanish, Gearrannan and the Westside. The Spaniards left before I came down for breakfast. Two people arrived off a plane at 9, but they immediately set off for work. As I was suffering a cracking headache, I didn't do much until it was time for an appointment with the local chiropodist. An ingrowing toenail turned into a bloody affair, unfortunately. Bought myself a little MP3-player at Woolworths. The documentation was all hidden on a mini-CDROM. Weather today bright but very cold, temperature barely touching 10°C. Wind northeasterly. The moon rose brightly above the coastguard station at 8.45 pm.

Wednesday 14/09/05

Found out that there had been a medical emergency on board a cargoship in the Minch. The crew of the Yeoman Bridge fell ill early on Tuesday, all 39 of them. They had eaten a fish meal that had given them food poisoning. The captain, ill himself, radio'd for assistance. Six of the most severely ill were transferred to hospital in Stornoway, the rest were treated on board by one of the island's GPs. It was initially feared that all 39 crewmembers would have to be admitted to hospital, a number that Western Isles Hospital would not be able to cope with. But this was not necessary. Otherwise, a much better day than yesterday. There were light showers in the morning, but those faded as the day wore on. Two sets guests in tonight; one Spanish couple and and American man who was exhausted following a 30 hour journey out of Salt Lake City.

Tuesday 13/09/05

What an awful day. All it does is pour with rain and blow a gale. Visibility is very, very poor. At times, the hills over at Arnish are not visible at all. I only venture out at around 5 o'clock to get food in. Not nice to be out and about. The only positive note is that it is not cold. The heavy rain causes flooding in Sandwick Road - up to 3 feet / 1 metre of water there. The sorting office in Portree, Skye, is flooded as are several roads on the mainland. The Jacobite steamtrain is stuck at Arisaig, and the firebrigade needs to come in and top up the steam engine with water for the trip back to Fort William. The railway to Mallaig is blocked because of flooding.

Monday 12/09/05

After the customary rundown of weekend mis-demeanours on Isles FM, I continue my efforts to record my keyboard strokes on the PC. Fairly successfully. It's cloudy and windy today. Go into the library at 3 to photocopy from the three volumes of Songs of the Hebrides. It totals 64 pages in the end. Some nice and well-known songs in amongst these. At 5pm, it starts to rain hard and it pours for the rest of the day. A rainfall total of 110 mm (4.5 in) is forecast for tomorrow.

Sunday 11/09/05

Today dawns overcast but dry and every now and again the sun peeps through. Four years ago today, the New York WTC was destroyed in a terrorist attack, claiming 2,749 lives. Now, the US is still reeling from the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Heard on Countryfile that someone is in the process of updating the famous Alfred Wainwright pictorial guides to the Lakeland Fells. Written between 1955 and 1991, they are now out of date. Using GPS technology,one man has made it his life's work to update the guides. During the afternoon, I manage to rig the keyboard up to the PC. After downloading the required software I am able to play back what I put in. Not very good, a computer is merciless. Good exercise in itself. Mrs B serves me a very good evening meal, which fills me up quite adequately.

Saturday 10/09/05

Perfect morning with only high cloud about. The Irishmen leave on the ferry at 7.15. I rise 45 minutes later, just as the Muirneag is tying up. Head out after lunch for a stint in the library. Whilst waiting for computer to become available, I discover 3 volumes of "Songs of the Hebrides", by Kenneth MacLeod and Marjery Kennedy-Fraser. MacLeod was a minister of the Church of Scotland around the turn of the 19th/20th century and collected songs in the islands. His companion adapted them for piano &c. The volumes are available through Birchwood Books for £50. Disappear up Bayhead for a walk round the Castle Grounds, to Creed Island and the Iron Fountain, back to the Castle. Encounter blackberries, a lady with purplish red hair, several dogs and lots of midges. As I sit on the seat just before the Creed River, one nips me in the finger. The little blighter. Although it's sunny, it is cool today. The weather is better than further south, where massive thunderstorms are coming through. Return to town at 5pm for shopping. The moon sets behind the hills again, at 8.33 pm - two minutes earlier than yesterday.

Friday 09/09/05

Brilliantly sunny but very cold morning. We have northeasterly winds, and heavy rain is forecast for northern England and southern Scotland. For a change, we've got the best of the weather. Temperature a very meagre 12C. The musicians returned from their performance at 3.30 a.m., hence their sleep-in until 11 o'clock. I head into town at 2 pm, to put some things on the web. Otherwise, not much is happening. Sunset at 8 pm, quite a transition from the late June time of 10.35. Moon sets at 8.35 pm, could watch it sink behind the Arnish hills. The MSN website had some horrendous English, look closely at the attached screenshot. Under the heading "In the News" the second item reads: "Katrina: less dead than thought".

Thursday 08/09/05

Fairly bright morning. Read in Westword on-line about the tragic accident on Eigg last month. Today and tomorrow the prime minister of the Faroe Islands will be visiting Lewis. He will focus on arts, industry and council activities. He'll see the Morven Gallery, Shawbost Mill, Arnish Yard and a lot more. Papers carry a good set of reports about renewable energy sources. Free Press is welcome back with me, although I'm quite disappointed with the letters from Lewis councillors, backing the windfarm project. Spot the certificate of registration of one of the Stornoway pharmacists in KJ MacDonald's pharmacy. This lady registered in 1946, which means she is in her eighties now. Day remains sunny but not warm, about 15C. Mrs B prepares my supper. The two young ladies we had in last night have left. One dealt with energy savings in the home, the other was a chartered surveyor. They are replaced by two Irish musicians, who are up for two performances in the British Legion. Between main course and afters mrs B's second son takes us on a spin in the car to Grimshader. The sun has just set, leaving a brilliantly coloured sky in the west. Reds, gold and blue are the dominating colours. We go up the Lochs road, where little signs advise caution with walkers. Tomorrow, the annual bogslog takes place. This takes place across the Arnish Moor and the Pentland Road, and involves pupils from the Nicolson Institute. We turn off for Grimshader along a winding road. I recognise the section between the bridge and the Loch Orasay pumping station. Shortly afterwards, another road branches off for Crosbost and Ranish. We continue into Grimshader, a long drawn-out village which sits high above Loch Grimshader. The road ends 1½ miles short of the loch's end. On the way, sheep keep flitting along in the roadside. We get out at the road's end to be welcomed by a barking sheepdog. The owner in vain tries to call her dog off. The animal shuts up once we disappear off its patch. There is a short gravel track, which terminates by the ruins of a few houses. Quite spectacular views even in the fading light. Because of the cold wind, we don't hang about. On the way back, a cat sits in the middle of the road and refuses to budge. I get out of the car, and only then does it move. Stupid lambs don't have the sense to move out of the way either, until the last minute. Return to SY at 9.15 to complete dinner. There was also an interesting program on ITV Grampian, which highlighted the appalling conditions in St Kilda, until people were evacuated in 1930. There was an 85% infant mortality rate, which recent investigations put down to severe pollution of houses and soil. Heavy metals accumulated in seabirds and the soil. As the bird's carcasses were used to fertilise the soil, this worsened the situation. The peat, burned in an open firepit, had a high chlorine content (remember, salt is sodium chloride). When burned, this produced to dioxins, one of the most toxic components known to man. Ashes were spread on the floor, all contributing to a very polluted environment. The houses had no chimney, smoke just dissipated through the roofthatch. Other factors contributed to the decline in the fortunes of St Kilda, until its population was finally evacuated on August 29th, 1930.

Wednesday 07/09/05

Wind and rain have gone by morning, to be replaced by drizzle. The newspapers report a 700% increase in the sales of pencils and rubbers, to fulfill the requirements for the currents Sudoku craze. I myself am tackling a book with 200 puzzles by Carol Vorderman and do every puzzle in every newspaper. Otherwise, I'm being ever so slightly lazy..

Tuesday 06/09/05

The mist has lifted and it's a clear day. High level clouds indicate a change in the weather. Chat to an Australian and his wife over breakfast. They are touring the islands. He originates from near Oban, but she is an Aussie. Norman was a sea-captain, latterly a pilot in the Torres Straits north of Australia. In the afternoon I go on a walk with mrs B's 2nd son, in the company of 15 other people to view cast iron railings in Stornoway. In the space of 2 hours we see cast iron railings, until I'm reeling with them. In the evening, a young lady arrives who will be going round the island to focus on possibilities for energy savings in homes. She is from Kirkwall, a town I know fairly well from my stint there in September 2004. We have a square meal followed by a ceilidh round the fire as the rain pours and the wind howls.

Monday 05/09/05

Today dawns even mistier than yesterday. It's clear to see that this is early September. Isles FM reports a fire at Stoneyfields Farm, in which a brand new car burned out. I saw the vehicle last Thursday, 1st September, when the new '55' registration plates were introduced. I suppose it was a bad idea to park the thing outside the fuel depot, that was a bad premonition. A man was apprehended in Benbecula who was in a house that was not his own. Local taxidrivers complain that their fares no longer cover their fuel costs; prices at £1.08 / litre. Visibility remains very poor through the day. At one point the red buoy and the old beacon-stand appear to float in the air next to Arnish light. Went into town to buy a rubber and pencil sharpener, as well as the papers.

Sunday 04/09/05

Went out with mrs B and her 2nd son (who arrived yesterday) to Traigh na Beirigh in Uig. It is very hazy but fairly sunny today. After a light lunch, we set off at 1pm down deserted streets and roads to arrive at Kneep one hour later. Here, mrs B's 3rd son has a caravan in a very nice location, overlooking the beach (see picture). Mrs B plants herself by a table and chats to her daughter in law and her kids. The eldest two boys run me over to Pabaigh Mor, about half a mile to the north. The water is cool if not cold. There is a small beach at the southern end of Pabay, which is where we land. A group of 4 is just leaving for Bhalasaigh in Great Bernera in a RIB. Just off the beach stand two small huts, both locked. Behind them are two vegetable patches, both sunken into the ground. The greens are burned by sand and salt. Head north across the island, with one of the lads in tow, bare footed and silent. Pabay is a nightmare to negotiate, thistle, bogs, rock and what have you. Some fairly steep ridges traverse the island. After 40 minutes we reach the natural arch, near the narrows to Pabaigh Beag, to the north. The arch is 9 m / 30 ft high, a large cavern. Rocks have been spewn out on the far side. A fine lagoon lies inland. To the northwest a tidal race can be discerned between Bhaltos and Pabay. To the northeast lie the islands off Gt Bernera and Old Hill. Unfortunately, I did not bring a camera. Return to the beach at 5, which sports a nice clump of wild mint. Am ferried back to the caravan at 5.30. After a cuppa and a cake (and an abortive attempt at riding a trailbike) we return to SY. The strange thing was that there had been rain at Loch Ganvich and points east, judging by the puddles in the roadside. Stornoway town centre is busy, with everybody leaving church at 7.45.

Saturday 03/09/05

Had an inside day today, continuing to watch the developing horror story in New Orleans. I do not understand why this has gone so badly out of hand. After 5 days, there is still no enforcement of law and order, no drinking water, food or healthcare. The mayor of New Orleans had a 12 minute rant on local radio, parts of which were relayed by CNN. Classic. It appears that president Bush is at a total loss as to what to do about this situation. Play about on AOL for a bit. Mrs B's son from Glasgow has arrived today for a 1 week stint. This coming week there will be celebrations for the 100th anniversary of the opening of the original town hall, and he has a part to play in that. The present day town hall was erected in 1925, seven years after the first one burnt down.

Friday 02/09/05

Over breakfast I advise the Canadians on a walk they ca'n do in Harris and one in Skye. It's a nixe sunny day today. Forgot to mention that I found some ripe blackberries in the Castle Grounds yesterday. Last year, I didn't find them until early October. Also forgot to mention that I met up with my friend Sally from Balallan. Her daughter, aged 16, has had to leave Lewis because of bullying at school. The bullying was both verbal and physical, and was also directed at her mother. This had been going on for the two and a half years that they have been living in the island. Although she could have gone to the secondary school in Tarbert, this was not possible because the local council was not prepared to foot the taxi bill for the 40 mile roundtrip. The girl now lives with her grandparents in Derbyshire, as Sally cannot afford to move there herself. The secondary school in Stornoway has a bad reputation in dealing with bullying, as it appears to be tolerated by teaching staff. In recent years, there was one suicide as a result of bullying.

Went into the library after lunch, but could not complete the 60 minute timeslot you are entitled to.

Thursday 01/09/05

Early in the morning, the clouds roll away east. By breakfast time, 8.30, the sun is shining brightly. The cruiseliner Prinsendam is back, anchored behind the Coastguard station. The Isles FM newsreader reads out an item on the American hurricane as if it's just been a rainy day over there. Head out for a walk at 2pm, going into the Castle Grounds as far as the Iron Fountain and the Creed River. I'm stopped by two cyclists who ask me for directions back to town. They are keen to avoid any inclines, so they head back along the foreshore. They have arrived on the Prinsendam, and have a mere 5 hours to explore the island. Others went out on a coach tour, but they didn't fancy that. Chatted to these Dutch folks for a bit, before they had to speed off into town. The Prinsendam had shifted across the bay to Holm Point by 4 o'clock. Two guests arrived off the ferry, Canadians from Quebec travelling around Europe.

Wednesday 31/08/05

Very dreich day with the promise of sunshine later. Go to town at 1130, only to find the shoeshop closed for today. Have to wait for an hour for the computer with the scanner. Read an interesting book by Tex Geddes, the 1940s sharkhunter who teamed up with Gavin Maxwell of otter fame. Together they ran the Isle of Soay Shark Fisheries. When I leave the library it's pissing down with rain and this never stops for another 8 hours. By then, a last ray of sunshine peeps through to light up the Arnish hills. A small rainbow stands above the Coastguard station. Later on, the rain resumes. Devastation by Hurricane Katrina is just beyond belief. The states bordering the Gulf of Mexico, Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama, have basically been flattened.

Tuesday 30/08/05

Nice sunny morning, but still windy. News from America is bad, extensive flooding and catastrophic damage and loss of life. The course of the storm gives me cause for concern. It is set to merge with a cold front over southern Canada on Thursday, which means that we run the risk of getting a swipe of Katrina's remains early next week. Isles FM reports that a dog owner was fined £40 for not cleaning up after his dog. This fining system was recently introduced by the same councillor who has the windfarms in his portfolio. I.e., the shit is hitting the fan. When your dog fouls in a public place, you have to clean up after it. Public places include streets, parks and beaches. If you bear in mind that Kenny MacLeod on Isles FM pronounces 'beaches' as 'bitches', the statement that "dogs on beaches" need to be cleaned up takes on a very smutty meaning. Finished writing down the diaries for dates up to October 7th, 2004, and readjusted the page counter in the written journal by 236. We're now on page 673 instead of 437. A couple of other odd-ball stories in the paper, such as the oil workers who put on an average of 10 kg since last survey, which means that fewer of them can travel in a helicopter. As a result, more flights are needed to ferry them around. Finally, there was this German woman who wrecked her car because a spider crawled over her face. Both the spider and herself survived.

Monday 29/08/05

Bright but very windy morning. Not as windy as it is in New Orleans, which has to put up with winds of 155 mph / 250 kph. One million people are being evacuated from the city. Norman sets off for Leverburgh at ten. As the morning progresses a very dramatic picture emerges from the States, and I go into full newshound mode. CNN is available on Sky, so that remains on. Norman returns from his Harris expedition at six, bringing back a bottle of Jura whisky.

Sunday 28/08/05

What an awful day, weatherwise. Rain and wind virtually the whole day. The rain relented, but during the afternoon the wind starts to pick up. Norman, the other guest, is due to sail for St Kilda tomorrow in commemoration of the 75th anniversary of its evacuation. The shipping forecast predicts force 6 to 8, with force 9 to 11 in northern sea areas. No surprise then when the trip gets cancelled. Convivial evening with a cheerful coalfire. Norman collects postcards from Scottish islands; he has 18 on Shetland, 27 on Orkney...

Saturday 27/08/05

Cool day with a cold westerly wind. The digger has taken out the concrete slab in five hours. The men working it are relief crew with Calmac, the local ferry company. One of them is from Tobermory, and favours the run across to Kilchoan in Ardnamurchan. Nip out at 1.30 to take additional pictures for my walk. Go to town for yet another new pen and a paper. Also do some more writing in the library on last year's expeditions in Skye. Have reached October 5th by 4pm, and only have 3 more days to write up.

Friday 26/08/05

Nice sunny weather today, but I stay indoors updating last year's diary. A digger appears in mrs B's backyard to take out the concrete slab tomorrow. We're now left with the one guest; Stefan and Suzanna leave on the midday ferry. Had a cracking ceilidh last night, because Stefan turned out to be a magnificent guitar player who gave a very creditable rendition of a Jimi Hendrix song. He also accompanied me on the keyboard with Gaelic and other tunes.

Thursday 25/08/05

Agnes and Philip head for Harris on the 10 o'clock bus. Chat to another guest who has come to attend a conference on the evacuation of St Kilda. Could go there myself, but can't get through on the phone. Go to the library to catch up with more writing. Weather a lot better today, if rather cool in the wind. There is the odd shower. Apparently, there is serious flooding in Germany and Austria, as well as much further downstream the Danube in Romania. This concerns our German guests.