Saturday 02/04/05

After breakfast, the weather changes markedly. At first it was still, misty with low cloud at 200 feet. At 10 o’clock it turns bright but quite windy. Little waves ride in the harbour and white horses prance out in the Minch. Mr & Mrs Legge return home today on the ferry, and they should be in their element. They like a bit of a bounce on the boat. I set off for Keose on the 14.20 bus. This is a small village just north of Laxay. On the bus there, I encounter some familiar faces from my days in South Lochs. The Gravir couple were still friendly, others will remain unmentioned. One girl on board was unwell, scoffing Strepsils. Peter drove the bus, dropping me off outside the Keose schoolhouse at 2.40. A man and his son offered me a lift into the village, but I declined, as I’m only out for a walk. There are two lochs on the way into Keose. The first, Loch Chnoc Iain Dubh stretches for nearly a mile from the A859. Second is the southern extremity of Loch nan Ritheanan. Had familiar views across Loch Erisort to Tabost and Cearsiadar. Further along the road, you reach a little harbour, then it turns into Keose Glebe. The view shifts to Gearraidh Bhaird and Cabharstadh. Beyond the roadend, peattracks lead north. The good peattracks finally peter out, and a moorland trek commences. Veer towards Loch Cheòis, and make an awkward descent through dead bracken. A veritable swathe covers the bank of the loch. Then pass a few dead trees and ascend Beinn Tuirc. Although not very high (about 65 metres), it does offer some nice views of the area. Liurbost can be seen along its full 2 miles’ length. Moves on to Crosbost and Ranish, with Arnish in the far background. To the southeast lies Cromor. It’s a bright and sunny day, with a force 5-6 wind. Lenticularis builds up, sometimes in triple layers due to the influence of the West Lewis and Harris hills. It’s very mild, 15 to 17C. Start the return journey at 4pm, to return to the roadend an hour later. I head into the moors for a little way upto Loch Nabhar. I notice willow catkins, wild roses sprouting green leaves and reeds turning green. Bright green mosses, and all sorts of things sprout. Dave on the South Lochs bus turns up at 5.28 to take me back to SY. Later that evening, BBC News 24 announces the death of the pope, at 20.37.