Wednesday 06/04/05

Return south once more today, but this time it's destination Scalpay. So it's off at 10 am on the HT coach with only a handful of people on board. Reach Tarbert at 1105. Still snow on the very highest peaks. There is a misprint in the timetable W14; the 1130 bus doesn't go until 1150. This gives me time to have a coffee and apple pie & custard at Firstfruits. Set off down the main road in Scalpay right to the last house, then on to the moors. Nice views over to Waterstein Head and Trotternish in Skye, as well as Eaval on North Uist. Can see the wreck of a ship on one of the skerries west of Meall Chalabost. Having a bit of a struggle with the extremely boggy terrain. It's muddier than ever. It also turns out to be a longer and more difficult walk than anticipated. It's not good to hurry in terrain like this, and I feel I have barely enough time to make it round for the 3.20 bus. Reach the lighthouse at Rubh'an Eorna at 1.15. Quite a pretty spot. Getting out of the enclosure is a problem. I try to climb the 1.4m high perimeter wall (find a dead ram), but nearly come to grief on it. A gate offers a simple solution. Nice view north to Reinigeadal and east to the Shiants. Earlier, Tarbert was clearly visible. Pass two lochs, then head up Beinn Scorabhaigh, at 104m the highest point in the island. The route leads across some small rocky outcrops and escarpments above Loch Cuilceach. Then it heads to the north of Loch an Duin. It's all a bit of a mad dash, and I can't say I'm fully appreciating the scenery. Have about 20 minutes to spare on return to the main road off the bridge. Hobble back to the shop to buy a late lunch (yep, it's 3.15). Sing the island's praises to the lady shopkeeper, then jump on the bus to Tarbert. I'm very cold at that point. However, the waiting room is taken up by local teenagers, so I eat the tasteless tuna & pasta in the busshelter. The youngsters play football in the carpark, until the police pull in. The bus leaves at 4.10. At Ardhasaig, the mountains come into view again, and there is a thin covering of snow from 1,000 ft upwards on the range south from Theileasbhal. Return to Stornoway at 5.05.