Wednesday 20/04/05

Another gorgeous sunny day, but with a force 5 easterly wind today. Feeling a bit chilly in that wind. Start off by handing the camera in for developing and printing the snaps – results disappointing. Mrs B’s son lends me a digital camera to try out, it’s a bit bulky. Results stunning. Am given a lift down to Eishken at 11, and arrive at Ceann Shiphoirt at 11.30. I toddle off south through that waterlogged valley of Gearraidh Sgeirabhat to Loch Airigh Thormoid. There are 4WD tracks, but it’s very tricky walking – it almost feels as if you’re about to sink into the abyss below. Pass across the isthmus between Loch Airigh Thormoid and Clàr Loch and am greeted by the surprising prospect of a walkway, paved with gravel! Not on the map, but then this edition of Explorer 457 is a bit inaccurate. The way terminates about ½ mile away on the slopes of Mor Monadh, and heads east along the valley of Gleann Cheothadail. It’s about 3 feet wide, and makes the walk a lot easier. Pass Loch Fath at some distance, then carry on to Loch na Beirighe and Loch Feoir. On the other side of the valley, Creag na h-Uamha rises up in front of Muaitheabhal. I’m in the middle of the area where they want to build a 133-turbine windfarm, each turbine being 140 m high. That’s about ¼ the height of the highest hill here, Beinn Mhor 520 m. The path passes through a deergate and terminates abruptly on the shore of Loch Eisgean. Have to cross a very rickety bridge to the south bank of the loch. Follows a traverse of the moor to the road, a right old nightmare. And once at the gates of Eishken Lodge, I find that I’m no longer allowed through the grounds of the lodge. The gates are electronically (read: wireless) operated. Spoilsports. There is this track along the shores of Loch Shell. I clamber over the moors, resist the temptation to wee into Eishken Lodge’s reservoir and find that I can circumvent their bl**dy gate that way. Have to turn back though, my bus to Stornoway leaves Balallan at 5.20, and it’s 3 pm. Follows a forced march over 7½ miles, in blazing sun but with a cool wind. Come across horses, then to the familiar shores of Loch Sgiobacleit and Loch Seaforth. Just beyond the head of the latter loch, I catch sight of a sheep lying on its side on the ground. Its feet pedal round weakly – this looks horribly familiar, and yep: it’s eyes have been pecked out. The lamb stands by innocently, and tries to suckle. Then it looks at me wide eyed, as if to say “what’s wrong with my mum?”. I cannot help, so march off again. Tugging a horn elicited no response, the animal is practically dead. Various cars coming the other way. Arrive at the Balallan busshelter at 5.18, and the South Lochs bus is hard on my heels – arrives at 5.20. A young girl on the bus heard me tell the driver that I’d walked 7½ miles in 2 hours 20 minutes, and she proceeded to tell me she wants me to go to bed with her. Yikes. Return to town at 5.55.