Tuesday 05/04/05

Set off this morning for a walk just across the border in Harris. At 10 o'clock, the HT bus left town, to drop me off at Vigadale at 1040. The weather is changeable, and it's chucking it down, just as I leave the bus. Fortunately, it dries up not long after, and I merrily make my way up the valley. It's wet underfoot, but otherwise not too bad. At 1145, I arrive at the Langadale River, and this time I make my way across. Barefoot that is, wading. The river is about 6 metres wide (20 ft), and on average 20 cm deep. It's not flowing fast, but it is absolutely freezing. There is snow on the surrounding hills, above 2,000 feet. Theileasbhal, further south, has a smidgen of snow just below its summit. After warming up in the sun again, I head west, up the northern slopes of Stuabhal. The views open out to the north, and at length Roineabhal hoves into view, as does the path from Aline to Langabhat and Creag na Clibhe. Rapaire, the hill immediately to the north of the path, finally blocks off the view. Reach the pass at altitude 328 m (1,080 ft) by 12.15. A whole new vista opens up to the west (the sea) and north. The rockface of Stuabhal towers 900 ft above me to the south. The track veers west, towards Loch Chleistir. A line of low hills marches to the north, partially screening a body of water. I cannot be sure which loch this is - either Loch Resort, but more likely Loch Beinisdale. The path veers across the outliers of Creage Chleistir, and StuLabhal, the lower summit to the southeast, appears. Loch Bhoisimid in the valley from Miavaig is visible, as is the line of hills to the west of the valley. My enjoyment is spoiled by a group of mountainbikers who come swishing down the hill. They plough up the path, if anything. A little bit p'd off, I proceed to the little bridge, only just short of the loch. The big triangular hump of Sron Scourst towers up to the south. It'll be a puzzle to carry on to Loch Resort from here. For a start, there's a big river in the way and no bridges charted. A little way on, the trail will join the track down to Miavaig (7 km), and from there it's another 6 km to the main road at Ardhasaig. After lunch, I decide to retrace my steps to Vigadale. By Loch Chleistir, a shower comes down. Once across the pass, a mouse flits across the path. I find it hiding from the rain in amongst the grass, it even allows me to stroke it, would you believe. Ninety minutes after departure from Glen Miavaig, I return to the Langadale River, in the rain. Have to cross by wading again, and it's not terribly pleasant in the conditions. It's raining at that moment, and I just have to put socks and boots straight on again and plod up that hill. Reach the end of the path by the site office at 4.30, so have plenty of time before the bus turns up at 5.05. It's not your average Hebridean Transport coach, but a minibus. It nearly slips by, but I recognise the logo. This time, my wet clothing is no problem for the driver, and we amble up to Balallan. First picking up a female passenger at Airidh a'Bhruaich. At Balallan, we have to change into a MacDonalds Coaches bus, driven by the man that's normally on the South Lochs run. Return to town at 5.45.