Friday 13/05/05

Friday the 13th is not an auspicious day, but I nonetheless go out for a major expedition. It’s sunny and warm today. So, I jump on the Uig postbus and alight at Bernera junction, 4 miles west of Garynahine. From there I have to walk 1 km southwest along the main road. A sheep has been knocked down and killed, with its bloody remains adorning the roadside. Yuk. At gridreference 198282, I head south on a track that will take me along the western shore of the string of lochs which drain Loch Langabhat to the sea. First is Loch Faoghail an Tuim. After half a mile, a house appears which is built on a small island. The causeway leading up to it is partially submerged. A green boathouse ¼ mile further up stands at the end of the hard track. There is a fair trail going further south. Loch Faoghail Charrasan accompanies me for the next mile. Only low hills on the far shore, but they hide a veritable maze of lochs and waterways. I find another bothy, all locked up. It’s got bunkbeds inside, but it looks a bit untidy. Who would use these, I wonder. There is a succession of jetties along the western shore; the eastern side is completely derelict. Behind the bothy, I clamber over a low ridge and head west for the second promontory, which juts out to separate Loch an Easa Ghil and Loch Faoghail Chiorabhal. Have to negotiate an area which would be soppy in wet weather. Bearing as far southeast as possible, I reach an awkward succession of stepping stones which I do have to negotiate in order to avoid a massive detour west. Do have to take boots and socks off to take an extra step in the water. Once safely on the far side, I continue to another bothy by a jetty. As I stand there, I look at the churning water in the channel beside me. It whips itself into a swishing, hissing circle and this circle moves inland. A tornado! The heather and grasses flail about in the wind, then the phenomenon dissipates up the hillside. Very strange. It is very warm in the sun, with some cumulus clouds, and the combination of water and turbulence could have created this little vortex. Continue down the track to the far jetty under the shadow of Coirabhal, on the far shore. Small cairns mark the channel. Ròineabhal looms up ahead, as it has done right the way through. A boat lies at the end of the track, completely filled with water. I could have taken it after bailing it out, but that would not have been right. I now disappear into the trackless wilderness along Loch Airighna h-Airde. It’s just over 2 km or 1½ miles to the fords at Eilean Mor. The mountains in North Harris pop up over the ridges of the hills to the southwest, Stuabhal most conspicuous. I follow the shoreline dutifully and presently draw level with Eilean Mhic Fail, a dark hump of an island. Finally, at 3.15, the loch narrows to the western outflow channel of Loch Langabhat. I have to cross this, and it’s a hell of a job. Deep, cold and fast flowing water, stones you cannot stand on as they’re too slippery. After that, I have another ford to negotiate on the far side of the island. Head north of its highest point towards the other channel. The spot marked ford on the map is unsuitable. The water is deep and fast flowing, the rocks are slippery and there are no handle holds. I scout downstream and presently find a more suitable location, shallow water, small stones, not slippery. But cold. On the far bank, I take a 60 minute break from 3.50. I do that because the bus from Balallan leaves at 7.40, and it’ll take me just over 1½ hours to reach that village from this point. It’s pleasantly warm in the sun, up to 22C! Finally I pack up at 4.50 and head east northeast towards Loch Ihagan, then veer southeast in order to avoid Loch Ròineabhal. It’s a bad idea to use Trealabhal as an aiming point; this hill is surrounded by water. Near the shore of Loch Ròineabhal, I aim for a valley just off the hill itself and settle into a long trudge. At the height of the pass, I glance back. Can see a car on the Great Bernera road, 5 miles north. Callanish and Breascleit stand out in the evening sun. Head east from here and make for Balallan. About half an hour away from the village, I take another 60 minute break, again in the blazing sunshine. Although it is quite late now, it’s still pleasant. Watch the traffic on the A859, beyond Loch Stranndabhat. At 7pm, I resume my return to civilization. Encounter some men working cattle. Have to wait until 7.50 for the bus to turn up; the South Lochs bus first has to go to Airigh a’Bhruaich to pick up – nobody. I’m the only passenger on board. Have a natter with Paul, the driver, through Keose and on to Cameron Terrace. Apparently, it’s frowned upon to fish on Sundays. And the income from fares on the South Lochs route has plummeted since I relocated to Stornoway, 3 months ago. Mrs B rings me up at Leurbost, concerned that I hadn’t come back yet. Thought I’d told her it would be 8.30? Change to “Dangerous Dave”’s bus at Cameron Terrace, and head back to SY to arrive there at 8.40. Never come back this late before! Mrs B cooked dinner for me tonight. Had an enjoyable evening with Rob and Els; the other guest declined the invitation.