Tuesday 03/05/05

After some preliminary shopping in town, I set off on the midday bus to Dalbeg. Can't wax enthusiastic about the drizzle. I head out via Barvas and Shawbost, and reach Dalbeg at 12.45, where the weather shows signs of clearing from the west. It's still raining at that point. On my down through the hamlet, I'm greeted enthusiastically by the local sheep. I carry camera and mapcase in a plastic bag, so the animals think I'm bringing food. The whole flock follows me down the road, lambs and all. No luck guys. I continue right down to the picnic area at the road end. There are only dead reeds in the loch at this time. After snapping about for a bit, I go uphill and head in the general direction of Shawbost over the coastal hills. Scenery still very good, with many steep sided inlets ('geos'). Skirt the outlying houses of Siabost bho Dheas / South Shawbost, around a large geo that has an underground connection to the sea. It becomes very rock as I move round the headland to Loch Shiabost. This is the inlet from the sea, separated from the sweetwater Loch a'Bhail by a shinglebank. In Siabost bho Thuath, the sheep all have one brightly coloured horn. A lamb cries outside the field, where the rest of its flock bleat back. Once again out on the moors beyond Carnan, it's up and down past Fibhig to Labost. The route winds outside this settlement to the coast at Port Mhor Bhragair. Have to squeeze between fence and sea to gain the outflow of Loch Ordais. This requires a tricky balancing and hopping act in order to avoid wet feet. Take a break at 3.30 at the far end of the shinglebank, where the picnic area is covered in daisies. After a little while warming up in the sun, I proceed past the cemetery. The stile at gridreference 289491 is still broken, gawd. Have to climb over the rocks right on the edge of the sea. Beyond it, a sheep and its lamb approach me tentatively. As I stand still, the lamb nuzzles my leg. The ewe is a little bit more cautious, but she almost seems to say "don't you think it's gorgeous?" I carry on after a minute to Loch Arnol. The outflow has shifted round, but is still unfordable. Have to backtrack through that flock of feisty sheep. Further up the road back to Bragar, two lambs are sitting alone in a big field, crying. Another ewe, with a chocolate coloured head, approaches me to show off her lamb. Return to Bragar, and head west through the village. Halfway down, the whalebone arch is clearly visible. A grey tomcat is fussing in the long grass, and gives me a cautious sniffle. It then jumps through a gate to look for mice there. As I sit waiting for the bus outside the busshelter (it has no bench), a couple of kids approach me to ask what I'm doing. Yes, waiting for the bus, sigh. It turns up at 5.10, to return me to SY.