Monday 21/02/05
At 12 noon I jumped on the Galson bus to Dalbeg, to resume where I left off last week. Admittedly, the section from Dalmore to Dalbeg is still to be done. Arrived at Dalbeg at 12.53. It is a beautiful day, sunny and crisp although not warm. Chat to a family from Point who have just walked in from Shawbost / Siabost, a few miles to the east. Dalbeg is a tiny hamlet, but it has a nice loch with reeds and a great beach. I have lunch above the sands, then set off, up a very steep hill. The way is once again marked with brown poles with yellow beads, and the stiles are made of red/brown painted wood. The route heads northeast, and gets a bit tricky when there is a stile over a wire fence. The wall beyond it has no stile over it, and this requires some climbing. I have to be careful not to bring the whole structure down, but manage to negotiate it without damage. A man with a dog is going in the opposite direction, but we’re too far apart to exchange a word. From the wall onwards, it’s a case of following the poles. At times it is difficult to spot the next pole once another pole is reached, but the general direction is along the coastal cliffs. After 2 miles I pass the northern fencing of Siabost bho Dheas (South Shawbost). Fantastic scenery! Have to head south along Loch Shiabost to the shinglebank across Loch a’Bhaile (Village Loch). Come across a man calling his dog, which comes lolloping from ¼ mile away across the sands. Walk through North Shawbost to Carnan Mor, a rather boggy affair. Continue along the coast to Fibhig and outside Labost, until the coastline forces me south. Loch Ordais has an outflow to the sea which I can just about cross by hopping from one stone to the next. A track across machair leads me to a picknick area by Bragar Cemetery, yep another churchyard. It’s nearly 4pm now, and my bus goes in just over an hour. I contemplate heading further east along the coast, and returning to Stornoway at 6.45, but decide against that. Just as well – when I do the continuation a few days later, there were all sorts of troubles. So, for now I head into South Bragar and walk along the ‘street’, past the famous whalebone arch, then out of the village along the A858 to Arnol. The business premises of Arnol Motors are surrounded by literally dozens of CCTV cameras of various sizes. I walk up to the second road into the village and take up position in the busshelter. Am shortly joined by a handful of kids who are going to music classes in town. The bus leaves nice and on time at 5.17.
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