Thursday 10/03/05

Another Harris day, and this time it’s down to Reinigeadal. The bus drops me off at the Màraig junction, from where the branch road to Reinigeadal plummets down 137 m in 1000 m. From the bridge across the burn, the road runs along the shore of the loch for about a mile, passing a few houses from the township. Then, an equally savage ascent starts, at a rate of 12½%, towards a pass below Toddum (528m). The views across Loch Seaforth are spectacular, but inland it’s an empire of stone. Two sharp bends bring me up to altitude 160m, below the flanks of Toddum. That hill is not for the faint of heart. It’s a cold, cloudy and windy day, the wind being from the west. The road passes a number of lochs before starting on a downward slant towards Loch Trollamaraig. Descent again 12½%. I am unable to make out a route to Molinginish, so will have to leave that out of proceedings. It’s very bleak out here, in spite of the views. On reaching Reinigeadal, one sees the tidal islet that lies off the township. The Shiant Isles to the east and the headlands of South Pairc in front, sheltering Lochs Seaforth and Claidh. I reach Reinigeadal at 12.15, the first house in the village is still being built. A septic tank lies ready for installation. The township is not much, about a dozen houses including a youth hostel. I chat to a local about routes before leaving the village for Tarbert. That requires the use of the footpath. This is one of the more difficult routes I’ve done so far, it goes up and down and is quite boggy and worn out in places. And that’s just the section to Loch Trollamaraig. I hardly have time to enjoy the scenery from the footbridge – Toddum looks imposing from this angle. On this particular route, my eyes need to be on the ground all the time. I arrive at the footbridge at 1 o’clock, and sit down for a brief lunch. Then I go up that incredibly steep path, rising 180 m over 400 m horizontal, and after that another 105 m over 800 m. The descent is less arduous. Initially, you see Tarbert as well as Urgha. The wind is a strong westerly, feeling cold. Technical problems have put paid to today’s Calmac sailings out of Uig (Skye) to Lochmaddy and Tarbert. I reach Laxdale Lochs at 2.20, where a helicopter is ferrying stuff in and out. I make short shrift of the run into Tarbert, where I arrive at 2.50. I potter about the place, buying the usual Thursday papers (Stornoway Gazette, West Highland Free Press) and a cloth about the Western Isles. The busdriver has a chat with me before we leave for Stornoway at 3.45. The wind buffets the bus on the way through the mountains, but we arrive safely in town at 4.50. My boots arrive at mrs B’s at 5.50!!!